Four celebrated designers who have shifted places over the past few months are depicted in this diagram – Raf Simons, Jil Sander, Hedi Slimane and Stefano Pilati. AnOther considers the latest appointment: Raf Simons as artistic director of the
Who? Raf Simons, Jil Sander, Hedi Slimane and Stefano Pilati – four celebrated designers who all have shifted places over the past few months.
What? It began with John Galliano's anti-Semitic comments last year and followed with the dismissal of the designer from Christian Dior; a position he had held since 1996. Next came the announcement in February that Jil Sander would return to her eponymous label she founded in 1968, leaving Raf Simons without a role as a womenswear designer. Following news that Stefano Pilati would leave Yves Saint Laurent, there were rumours that Simons was in talks with the Parisian house only to be quashed when the house announced Hedi Slimane as its new creative director. Simons destination was last night confirmed at Christian Dior, where he will oversee women's ready-to-wear, haute couture and accessory collections. Pilati's next move is yet to be announced.
"Whilst John Galliano's inspiring design and aesthetic contribution to the house's rich history will not be forgotten, it feels like the right time for the Dior brand to move away from extravagent runway shows and a somewhat theatrical aesthetic"
Why? There are many interesting months ahead. In June, Hedi Slimane will debut women's resort and Sander, her men's ready-to-wear. In July, Simons will show his inaugural Dior couture collection. It's exciting to think about Simons' addition to the couture roster (and what difference it will make to the red carpet). "I am fascinated with what could be the relevance of the language of couture in the 21st Century", he told Cathy Horyn, a longstanding supporter of the Belgian designer, for The New York Times. Whilst it's still early days, it seems Simons is the perfect fit for the prestigious Parisian house. In his role at Jil Sander, he demonstrated an acute balance of modernity and elegance; particularly in his last two collections. In hindsight, the coat-clutching, Grace Kelly curls and sparkling jewellery were more in the vein of Dior than they were Sander, a house known for its minimalist codes. Whilst John Galliano's inspiring design and aesthetic contribution to the house's rich history will not be forgotten, it feels like the right time for the Dior brand to move away from extravagent runway shows and a somewhat theatrical aesthetic. Bring on the new Dior era.
A Raf Simons Archive Sale will take place at Schuttershfstraat 9, 1st floor, 2000, Antwerp on Wednesday April 18 (10-7), Thursday (10-7), Friday (10-6) and Saturday (10-6).
Text by Laura Bradley
