The Hunger revels in the gastronomic stylings of Skye Gyngell's new restaurant at Somerset House
What is it?
Spring is a new restaurant in the recently reopened wing of Somerset House. After making her name at Petersham Nurseries – and gaining a Michelin star along the way – lauded chef Skye Gyngell has launched her latest venture in one of London’s favourite historic buildings. “More than anything, it’s been a restoration project,” she says. “Before we arrived, the room had been closed off to the public for 150 years, which is such a shame because it’s so beautiful.”
Not doing things by halves, the Australian-born Gyngell is not only setting high standards in the kitchen, she’s put her keen eye to every part of the décor as well. Diffuse light and delicate shadows on pastel shades and textured walls make the large dining room and arboretum feel grand in a turn of the twentieth-century meets upscale sorority-house type of way. “We wanted to create an inviting, convivial space that was full of light, was fresh and not formal,” she says. “A place where people would feel at ease. And I wanted a pink pass – which I love.”
Why should you go?
Gyngell creates dishes that are inviting and nurturing. Sourcing from excellent suppliers including the Fern Verrow biodynamic farm in Herefordshire, her cooking is a mix of top technique and mama’s Mediterranean best. The generously portioned San Daniele ham with ricotta, farinata (a crêpe-like, chickpea-flour pancake) and artichokes arrives in elegant disarray – unfussy and satisfying, it’s a starter with soul.
"It’s so important to me that people can see what they’re eating – if it’s a pear, you should be able to see it’s a pear" — Skye Gyngell
What’s on the menu?
The Fern Verrow mixed leaves with Caesar dressing and candied walnuts is one of the best salads going in London. Fresh, slightly bitter and with a dressing just rich enough to matter, you’ll relish Gyngell’s sense of balanced simplicity. She says about her approach, “I don’t like to overcomplicate things. It’s so important to me that people can see what they’re eating – if it’s a pear, you should be able to see it’s a pear. You certainly won’t find any foams at Spring!” Another winner is the textured onion-squash ravioli – no pureed-to-a-pulp filling here – which is mixed with ricotta and served in marjoram butter.
What else?
They’re making their own tonic water, as well as chestnut and cherry wines, which they match with delicious homemade ice creams, both savoury and sweet. The wine list is inspired, and the drinks team know their stuff. Opt for the pre-dessert wine called Devin – made by a discerning octogenarian in Slovakia. The great and the good are already flocking to Spring, but this place is not just for being seen, it’s for enjoying hearty fare done with a delicate touch, in a light, uplifting setting.
What we loved: the décor and dining arboretum; Marian Nemec, the Slovakian sommelier who knows about unusual wines; the home-cooked sensibility brought to a refined menu.
Spring is at Somerset House.
Words by Ananda Pellerin
Ananda Pellerin is a London-based writer and editor, and Neil Wissink is a visual artist also based in London. Read more from The Hunger here, and contact The Hunger here.
