Consistently applauded for their ability to capture the essence of youth and send it down the catwalk, Portugese duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida's A/W15 show saw post-club, sweaty hair and panda eyes complementing their elegantly dishevelled morning-after collection. We spoke to Vidal Sassoon Ambassador Duffy about his nightbus inspirations and why he loves the Marques'Almeida studio wall.
Marques'Almeida A/W15Photography by Chris Rhodes
On Paulo and Marta's references… "Basically, their moodboard is the best moodboard. When you walk into the studio, their wall is covered and every picture is one that I love. A lot of their references are from the nineties, and that's when I was a teenager so it’s a lot that I identify with; things like Frankie Rayder, Juergen's Go-Sees, Robert Cary-Williams' wet, stringy hair."
Marques'Almeida A/W15Photography by Chris Rhodes
On previous seasons... "Three seasons ago, Paolo and Marta’s moodboard had a picture of Janis Joplin on stage; a bit sweaty, a bit frizzy. So, we did that ridiculously huge, frizzy hair that came across the face and stuck everywhere. And then, last season was a continuation of that with all those lumps of old, used hair that we’d picked up off the floor and stuck in the girls’ hair. This season, they wanted to step away from the character but evolve their girl even more, so we did dirty and greasy, a bit dank and gross at the roots with a real scruff on the crown."
Marques'Almeida A/W15Photography by Chris Rhodes
On A/W15... "The hair is clubby, a bit sweaty, kind of pushed-up in the back, a bit gross. And, as Terry [Barber, the make-up artist] put it, 'last season, you did nightbus hair. This year, I'm doing nightbus skin.' So, those were our inspirations: sweat and nightbuses."
