A discussion of Louis Vuitton's latest collection
“There was nowhere to go but everywhere, so just keep on rolling under the stars,” wrote Jack Kerouac in On the Road, a book that continues to inspire Kim Jones. His S/S14 Louis Vuitton menswear travelogue documents his journey across America, driving from New Orleans to Las Vegas and the characters that he encountered, from Ivy League prep students and frat boys to hippies, cowboys and American subcultures. Patchwork shirts formed from bandanas, worn alongside silk varsity jackets emblazoned with peace signs and lettering, hooded leather tops and checkered shorts, culminating in a series of Las Vegas-friendly glittering suits. The collection was sprinkled with holiday momentos and intimate details, such as travel mugs, harmonicas and clothes pegs.
Here, AnOther speaks to stylist and Another Man creative director Alister Mackie, casting director Shelley Durkan and model Cole Mohr about their experiences of the show.
Alister Mackie, stylist: "I loved the prom looks, especially the rustic silk tuxedos which were pastel colours, that we accessorised with beautiful flowers made from feathers, held in place with incredible pegs made from Abalone or stone from the American desert. What I liked about this collection was the easy reality of it – every piece was wearable and fresh but on closer expection was an interesting fabric or construction. Luxury but understated. The Mother of Pearl fabric was something remarkable, made from a technique traditional used for weaving Japanese Obi's. Minute strips of Mother of Pearl are cut and then striped and woven on a very narrow loom with silk threads. There seemed to be a new wave of fresh faces this season and I wanted a young, optimistic energy to the show so the guys were a little younger than usual, but in that open space with the strong soundtrack (a mix by Honey Dijon of two great 'R.E.M' tracks, Orange Crush and Losing my Religion), it really worked."
"What I liked about this collection was the easy reality of it – every piece was wearable and fresh but on closer expection was an interesting fabric or construction" – Alister Mackie
Shelley Durkan, casting director: " Exclusives for this season were Louis Steyaert and newcomer Alexander Faye who was having his first season and walking in his third show after being scouted skating in Lyon a couple of weeks before. There were a lot of models walking for the first time at Louis Vuitton, Ian Sharp opened the show, and there were other great new faces such as Zachary, Florian, Simon Paul, Abel and Eugen…to name a few."
Cole Mohr, model: "My favorite part about doing the show was that it was with my friends, Mr. Jones and Mr. Mackie and Shelley. It felt like a family reunion. And it's fucking chic! My favorite look was definitely my second look, the tuxedo, and the cognac leather jacket with the Vuitton logo on the back."
Text by Mhairi Graham