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Mass-produced fashion designs soon become a commonplace sight, but the most striking and influential creations remain in splendid isolation, preserved in private collections or museums, rarely to see the light of day...
Mass-produced fashion designs soon become a commonplace sight, but the most striking and influential creations remain in splendid isolation, preserved in private collections or museums, rarely to see the light of day. The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York is, for a short period at least, addressing the imbalance with The Great Designers, Part One: the first of two exhibitions exploring 50 of the most important designers of the 20th and 21st centuries. The two-part exhibition forms part of a year of cultural events in anticipation of the April release of The Great Designers: Fashion’s Hall of Fame from A-Z, a book which will examine 500 of the museum’s most sublime pieces.
It may already be home to 50,000 garments and accessories, but the museum’s Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears and Fred Dennis still took the opportunity to acquire a number of new items. These include a 1990s black silk coatdress by the late Alexander McQueen from his time as creative director at Givenchy, which captivates with its intricate embroidery. As does a signature 1987 Thierry Mugler floor length creation complete with fishtail skirt. Also celebrated are the cutting edge designers, who have emerged from the 21st century, including ”glamour meets grunge” designer Rick Owens, whose batwing jacket is present in the exhibition, alongside a Gareth Pugh wool dress featuring patent leather strips and a fierce Boudicca ensemble constructed of cotton, rayon and leather.
"Also celebrated are the cutting edge designers, who have emerged from the 21st century including Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh and Boudicca"
No exhibition of this nature would be complete without showcasing the work of designers whose legacies continue to influence the catwalks today: Elsa Schiaparelli's skill is represented by a 1935 bias-cut gown and homage is paid to Madame Grès with her navy-blue silk taffeta dress.
The Great Designers, Part One is at The Museum at FIT until May 8 2012.
Suggested Reading: See our interview with FIT's director and chief curator Valerie Steele here.
Text by Fiona Cook
