Damir Doma talks about his hero, Joseph Beuys
After working alongside Raf Simons and Dirk Schoenberger in Antwerp, Croatian-born designer Damir Doma debuted at Paris Fashion week in 2007. Since then, he has explored a uniquely sensitive approach to the making of modern menswear. Informed by expressions of identity, the human body's fragility, and the work of artists such as Gerhard Richter, Gottfried Helnwein and Joseph Beuys, Doma's work has been characterised by the use of draped silhouettes, sheer fabrics and seemingly-effortless fluidity. Here, he elaborates upon his fascination with Beuys, in particular, whose life, work and sense of style have all proved to be ongoing sources of fascination to the designer.
"I first heard about Joseph Beuys when I was 12 years old. I visited a museum with my family where I discovered Das Ende Des 20. Jahrhunderts. It was made up of 44 huge basalt stones spread over a whole room. I remember feeling very moved by my first contact with the installation, even though I didn’t know much about the artist at that time.
Since then, I have been absorbing as much information about Beuys as possible – I have bought every book and watched every documentary about him. I would like to know more about what happened to him in WWII. Apparently, his plane crashed in the no-man's land between the Russian and German fronts and he was saved by the Tartans who covered his body in fat and wrapped him in felt to keep him warm. I believe this story is the basis for all his creative work. But is it a true story or is it invented? Does that even matter? I can't explain why, but I feel very connected to this part of his life.
Beuys had a very clear and recognisable look. His outfit became iconic because he wore it everyday – he created a classic. I love his waistcoat. There is even a Joseph Beuys waistcoat in my collection! It's very different in style to the clothes I normally design and its presence creates an interesting tension.
I admire Beuys’s work and how his life merged into his art. He gave his life for art which is wonderfully dramatic and romantic. In particular, I like the mystery of his art. I also admire his sense of aesthetics and his great choice in materials like fat, felt, wood, basalt.
Beuys said, 'Every man is an artist.' And I agree – it’s about finding out who you are and what you want."
James Anderson writes for Another Man, Another, Fantastic Man, i-D, Arena Homme Plus, Harrods, PIN-UP and Nowness.com
