Previous Berlin Fashion Weeks have left critics frustrated, but this season was different. Instead of self-defeating comparisons with Paris, the sensibility at Bebalplatz celebrated an unabashedly mature commercial identity of its own. Mercedes-Benz
Previous Berlin Fashion Weeks have left critics frustrated, but this season was different. Instead of self-defeating comparisons with Paris, the sensibility at Bebalplatz celebrated an unabashedly mature commercial identity of its own. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin 2011 embodied the sponsor’s DNA more than Berlin’s feral zeitgeist but that was no draw-back, just a clear sign that Germany's fashion scene is able to produce accessible and beautifully crafted luxury items.
Rena Lange, Laurèl, Allude and Schumacher each offered pitch-perfect, beautifully composed and crafted collections contributing to the international chorus singing the praises for Meryl Streep in the seventies. Hugo Boss earned its authoritative position by showing sleek, crisp, predominately black, red and white cocktail and day-wear at the Neu Nationalgalerie to hundreds of elegant onlookers including Tilda Swinton and Chloë Sevigny.
Yet even as Berlin's poor-but-sexy sensibility was upstaged by polished mainstream shows, Berlin itself has been budding with new creative stores – from Opening Ceremony's 'Happy Shop' to avant-garde designers Don't Shoot the Messengers’ own boutique. And three labels in the main tent brilliantly represented the home-team. Kaviar Gauche's pairing of PVC tee-shirts with cream-colored silk trousers and Karaleev's Nirvana-inspired sculptural wool garments personified the city's organic blend of sexiness, history and art. The truest expression of the season came from Leyla Piedayesh, whose sophisticated and sexy Lala Berlin collection was inspired by childrens’ arts and crafts. Her dresses, trousers and full boxy suits were printed with an emerald, blue and acid lemon pattern recalling paper marbling, and the shimmer details on a tiny slinky dress looked like the sprinkles that children lavish on their masterpieces. It was a great grown-up collection to take to market.
