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A Peripheral Portrait of London Fashion Week

By diverting his lens from the madding crowd of LFW to individual onlookers that stayed coolly on the sidelines, photographer Clay Gardner captured a rarer, more compelling scene

Since relocating from the Neoclassical confines of Somerset House to Soho's Brewer Street Car Park, London Fashion Week has become an even bigger lure for crowds of fashion zealots hoping to catch a glimpse of beautifully turned-out editors, supermodels or front-row frequenters who boast Instagram followings the size of a small country. A typical "on-schedule" Saturday evening, for example, surges and swells with students, shoppers, and bloggers dressed in their most eclectic get-up, documenting every moment through the latest VSCO filters. But, as overt and eventful the occasion, singling out true individuals – those that cast a niche style shadow from the periphery of the pack – has become an altogether rarer affair. And that's precisely what photographer Clay Gardner has documented in his evocative London Fashion Week series. 

"I try to pursue people or things that have the ability to tell a story," explains the New York-based image maker, adding: "The concept here was to focus on both the youth and the peripherals of London Fashion Week. I was drawn to the way they carried themselves. I noticed the way they evoked an individuality amongst the crowds saturated with fashion. Style was a large part of these photographs, but it was my intention to capture the person rather than what they were wearing. The clothing, in my opinion, is a byproduct of who they are at that moment in their life." Below Gardner muses on his photographic highlights from the series.  

"In the process of photographing each subject, I simply asked if I could have a moment to take their photo. I suppose I'm quite straightforward and I think the subjects respect that I am not trying too hard to get their attention. This portrait of a kid in a spiked collar wearing red eye make-up is close to a complete portrait for me. It leaves me wanting to ask more questions about the subject and wondering what their complete story is." 

"This guy wearing a Slipknot shirt was using a broom to sweep the sidewalk in front of the shop he worked in near Brewer Street Car Park. He noticed a group of his friends down the street, so he ditched the broom to go and hang out and be part of the swarm of fashion week people and photographers. I loved his enthusiasm for everything else besides work." 





"This portrait of a young Icelandic man, leaning against a dusty red doorway, is my favorite from the series. He is totally individual and had so much confidence without the need for expensive clothing. He had a genuine disposition and embodied personal style through confidence – the antithesis of "the industry".