Following their debut runway show in Paris, we consider the mysterious charm and subtle sex appeal of French fashion collective VETEMENTS
S/S15 marks the second season and first runway show for new Parisian fashion house VETEMENTS. Made up of former Margiela and Louis Vuitton alumni, there is already a quiet buzz building around the mysterious collective. Translating to simply Clothing in English, a cool air of nonchalance carries throughout the label, in wide-legged trousers, one-shouldered tops and slouchy knitwear in red, white and blue (very French). It captures an effortless Parisian charm — clothes that are thrown on, worn out and re-polished. For S/S15 they play with proportion and silhouette, marring wide legs with cropped knits, alongside thigh-high splits and sleeves that hang down over the hands.
“VETEMENTS is not just one woman, it's a group of different women" — Demna Gvasalia
Inspired by “real people on the streets,” VETEMENTS clothing is made to be worn, be it in a trench coat, a leather biker jacket or an army tank. Some garments are deliberately labeled, such as ‘collar’ written in white lettering across a navy poloneck. “VETEMENTS is not just one woman, it's a group of different women,” explains Demna Gvasalia, who revealed himself this season as the designer at the helm of the label, exposing one piece of their mysterious puzzle. Filled with the ambiguity of Margiela, and the surrealist chic of Céline, VETEMENTS feels like a quiet awakening, and the beginning of something quite special.
Text by Mhairi Graham
