Who would have thought that there would be a connection between American hip-hop and the old world, “Made in Italy” label? It is not the most obvious link certainly, but Adam Kimmel, the New York-based menswear designer who is a firm believer in
Who would have thought that there would be a connection between American hip-hop and the old world, “Made in Italy” label? It is not the most obvious link certainly, but Adam Kimmel, the New York-based menswear designer who is a firm believer in Italian quality, has used rap superstar Snoop Dog as the main inspiration behind his collection for next spring. How did the New Yorker, brought up with Snoop’s music since his early teens, come to marry his hero with the charms of heritage fashion practices that some are believing to be outdated in today’s global, digital society?
Why Snoop Dog?
I listened to Snoop’s music growing up, from the age of 11 or 12 years old. There was this moment back in October 2008, a period of calm regarding Snoop, where you did not notice him as much as you once did. One day, I was flicking through the Wall Street Journal, and there he was, talking about his business strategy. He was incredible, like a wise sage of our time – he really impressed me. So I looked into it and started researching what he was wearing, his style. I have always searched for the iconic American man. That is what excites me about what I am doing, to research and try to find out what defines American masculinity. What is important for my work, too, is my desire to dress my heroes. And Snoop is one of my heroes for sure.
A hero, because of his music, or also for his style?
The style thing is definitely something about him that is underappreciated. Doing a Snoop collection is very much different from doing a collection on another American rapper, because he is his own animal altogether. I like to jump around with inspiration and maybe it was not what was expected from me, but I try to keep things as new as I can. In the end, what I want is to create a product that’s one of a kind.
Speaking of products, how would you actually define what a luxury product is?
That’s a multi-dimensional thing. It’s the quality of the fabric, and the fact that it has to be beautifully tailored. In terms of production, there is Italy, and there is Italy. I have been working there for seven years now and have been constantly upgrading the quality, keeping on the move to find the best pattern maker, the best factory and so on. Having a hand-made garment with an armhole that functions, softly draped shoulders and lapels that just roll over by themselves without being factory ironed, those are the little details on everything that really make the difference. And for me, that’s luxury.
So from your perspective Italy is not dying as a manufacturing country?
No, because they still do things you can’t find anywhere else. Take tailored knitwear; I have yet to see a product in this category that matches Italy. I can take a beautiful cashmere knit and turn it into a stunning blazer. The real old world Italian stuff, it still exists. The romance of the Armani tailor and the C.P. Company outerwear factory, these people are still around. It is just a question of finding them.
Text by George Ghon
George Ghon is a London based journalist writing about fashion and art.
