Breakfast means comfort food at Nopi, Yotam Ottolenghi's new all day dining venture in Soho. "As I see it, breakfast is the one meal when you want to be the least challenged,” he tells us.
Breakfast means comfort food at Nopi, Yotam Ottolenghi's new all day dining venture in Soho. "As I see it, breakfast is the one meal when you want to be the least challenged,” he tells us. “People revert to what they grew up with – to their idea of comfort. Our menu tries to satisfy this, but always with an interesting twist or an emphasis on quality." And nobody knows the first meal of the day like this Israeli-born chef-patron, who has made a cult of dining out before midday at his eponymous restaurants across London. At Nopi, the twists on traditional English fare include chorizo, chickpea stew and a fried egg in lieu of beans on toast, or black rice with coconut milk and mango – a Malaysian-inspired take on porridge which comes alive when liberally laced with palm syrup.
The menu reflects Ottolenghi’s mixed Middle Eastern and Mediterranean background, as well as the influence of Israeli-born executive chef Sarit Packer, and Malaysian-born Australian head chef Ramael Scully. Swapping knowledge and drawing inspiration from the kitchen staff’s diverse backgrounds, their breakfast menu represents a gathering of cross-cultural savoir faire. Alongside more recognisable options such as American-style lemon pancakes, or scrambled eggs with cured salmon, is a traditional North African Shakshuka; braised eggs (from corn-fed Italian chickens – the yolks are an eye-popping orange) served atop a light stew of sweet peppers and tomatoes. We couldn’t get enough of the courgette and manouri (Greek sheep’s cheese); fritters with lime soured cream which are improbably light and incredibly edible. This being an Ottolenghi venture, there are plenty of pastries on hand as well; our favourite is the sticky delicious blueberry friand.
For a more traditional breakfast in the West End, settle into the National Gallery café’s high-ceilinged continental dining hall. Opt for the full English, including upscale sausages and cannellini beans in a thick tomato sauce, or the generously portioned Eggs Benedict with tangy hollandaise. Paul Rothe & Son is famous for its lunch offer, but this well-preserved deli counter also throws a mean bacon sandwich – we like it with butter on white – perfect for a quick brekky. Or stop in for some toast and tea, and bask in the staff's old-fashioned friendliness. If you’re looking for something good and greasy, we love Bar Bruno. From the outside, you’d be forgiven for mistaking this Italian stalwart for a newsagents, though the interior is well-preserved 60s kitsch. Good for friendly staff and tasty, inexpensive fry-ups of extreme portions; a classic Soho caff and one of a dying breed.
Ananda and Neil visited Nopi (21 - 22 Warwick Street, W1B 5NF) on Monday, 28 March at 9:30am, the National Gallery (Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN) on Thursday, 30 March at 10am, and Paul Rothe & Son (35 Marylebone Lane W1U 2NN) and Bar Bruno (101 Wardour Street, W1F 0UG) on Saturday, 2 April at midday and 1pm, respectively.
Text by Ananda Pellerin
Ananda Pellerin is a London-based writer and the Editor of Wheel Me Out. Neil Wissink is a visual artist also based in London.
