Frank's Campari Bar has been sitting atop the roof of a disused multistory car park in Peckham for several years. This week for two nights they welcome London's most exciting cooking collective, the Young Turks...
Frank's Campari Bar has been sitting atop the roof of a disused multistory car park in Peckham for several years. This week for two nights they welcome London's most exciting cooking collective, the Young Turks, to throw down with a Turkish ocakbaşı-inspired menu full of fresh British produce.
Frank's grew up around the Bold Tendencies Sculpture project, and there are several large, newly commissioned works to see as you make your way up through the car park, as well as on the roof itself, where you get a, frankly incredible, panoramic view of the city.
Frank's itself is comprised of a series of long, simple wood tables, sheltered by a large A-frame of thick wood pillars holding up a red tent. The space, designed by Practice Architecture, feels both semi-permanent and secure, and it is an excellent fit for the Youg Turks who have developed a reputation for one-off and temporary events that are relaxed, convivial and most importantly, focussed around beautiful, imaginative dishes.
Throughout the evening over ten sharing plates of grilled meats and vegetables are brought to our table at a comfortably slow pace. To begin, the cured pork fat with cobnuts is surprisingly light, the buttermilk fried chicken and pine salt (served on bushy pine leaves, no less) is soft and crispy, while the peppery, deep flavour of the radishes and black sesame, and the grilled leeks with dried scallops and bacon in XO sauce are two stand-out dishes. Over the next couple of hours more small, inspired combinations arrive, including crispy chicken skin with mead, grouse sausages with damson and bread sauce, and bbq pork with molasses and fennel blossom. All of it based on seasonal, locally-available ingredients.
Find out more and book for tonight, the final evening of the Young Turks at Frank's. Beyond reasonably priced at £26 per person.
Ananda Pellerin is a London-based writer and Neil Wissink is a visual artist also based in London. More from The Hunger, and contact The Hunger here.