A guide to the best spots – both on and off the beaten track – in the Brazilian metropolis
If Rio de Janeiro is the Brazil’s sexy, party-going city, São Paulo is its more mature, professional counterpart. While the city’s locals (Paulistas, as they’re known) may be more likely to wear a business suit than a bathing suit, there’s no shortage of art, architecture and culture in the locale, with modernist architect Oscar Niemeyer erecting many of his buildings there in the 1960s. As the industrial capital of Brazil, much of the country’s wealth is generated here, a testament to a city skyline crammed with skyscrapers – and an art scene overflowing with inspiring museums, galleries and creatives.
The Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC), located in the storied Ibirapuera Park, is one of the country’s largest art institutions, with a rooftop bar where you can set your sights on the city; it’s also the current host to the 38th Panorama exhibition, an extensive overview of contemporary Brazilian art. Also not to be missed is the Instituto Moreira Salles, a cultural center on the iconic Avenida Paulista that stages standout photography exhibitions, as well as one of the largest photographic research libraries in Brazil (make sure to see Richard Serra’s colossal artwork, Echo, jutting skyward in the back garden).
Make your visit truly spectacular by sleeping among the art at Rosewood São Paulo, a design marvel located in the historic Cidade Matarazzo complex, a 30,000-square-meter complex of heritage buildings. The newly-opened luxury hotel is designed by Philippe Starck and Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel and has 450 site-specific artworks onsite that range from historic furniture pieces by architect Lina Bo Bardi, to blue-chip commissions by artist Vik Muniz, as well as works by contemporary Brazilian artists like Virgilio Neto and Oskar Metsavaht.
Here is a selection of other places – both on and off the beaten track – that we recommend visiting.
Mendes Wood Gallery
The up-and-coming Barra Funda neighborhood of São Paulo is home to a number of contemporary art galleries bringing Brazilian and international artists to the fore. Mendes Wood DM is one such space, hosting critically engaging exhibitions by artists such as Lucas Arruda, Alvaro Barrington and Lynda Benglis. With a programme that brings both Brazilian artists to the outside world and international artists to Brazil, the gallery’s philosophy of cross-pollinating puts an impressive range of artists in conversation with one another.
Olhao
While in Barra Funda, make your way to Olhao, a few doors down from Mendes Wood DM. The experimental artist-run space hosts a rotating schedule of exhibitions, pop-ups and events, most recently with the launch of creative design studio Palma’s debut furniture collection during the Design Barra Funda festival.
Mescla
For dinner, try Mescla in Barra Funda, a hip restaurant that serves natural wines. This hidden gem serves modern Latin cuisine with a twist, blending Latin American, European, Asian and African flavours in intriguing combinations. Chef Checho Gonzales incorporates dishes from his Bolivian heritage, such as Salteñitas, a meat-filled pastry similar to an empanada.
Mamae Bar
After dinner, head to Mamae Bar in Barra Funda, the “best place to see and be seen,” according to one reviewer on the Amigo App. With drinks and music, this is where the stylish locals gather – and you’ll feel like one too. You likely won’t find tourists here, as it’s quite under-the-radar, known mainly to the Paulistas (São Paulo natives) as the new hotspot.
Copan Building / Pivô:
Designed by modernist Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer in 1966, the Copan Building is an undulating architectural marvel that draws on Bauhaus-ian principles of vertically-integrated living. Located in the city center, the building houses over 1,100 apartments situated on top of a ground floor that’s home to an indoor-outdoor shopping arcade that follows the architectural curvature. Make sure to stop into Pivô, one of the city’s most important artist residencies that hosts an exhibition space and outpost of Pinga Store on the ground floor — a curated boutique of Brazilian designers. After, head nearby to the Terraco Italia rooftop 41 floors up, with incredible views of the city and an old school vibe.
Casa Zalszupin
A lesser-known but equally astounding site worth visiting, Casa Zalszupin is a house-museum where the late Jorge Zalszupin (1922-2020) lived and worked. The Polish-born designer was known for his brand, L’Atelier, whose modernist furniture could be seen in many public buildings throughout the 1960s and ‘70s. Visitors can wander through the low-slung house surrounded by lush vegetation — designed by Zalszupin in 1960 — and get lost in his world.
Domo Bar
A listening bar with great food, Domo Bar is loved by the locals for its cocktails, natural wine and live music spun on vinyl. Located in the central Vila Buarque neighborhood, the Japanese-influenced small-plates restaurant is as sleek as its clientele, who dance to nightly DJs on a weekly rotating schedule.
A Baianeira
Top-notch Brazilian food is served at A Baianeira, a Barra Funda restaurant that’s garnered the attention of Michelin’s Bib Gourmand Guide for Brazil in 2019. Chef and owner Manuelle Ferraz blends homestyle food from the Bahia and Minas Gerais regions inspired by her upbringing, executed to the highest level. The restaurant’s eclectic vibe comes with Brazilian classics like pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese bread made from tapioca flour) and farofa (toasted cassava) alongside inventive dishes like gnocchi made with purple sweet potato. Don’t miss the feijoada, black bean stew with rice and pork.
Pege
A number of independent, up-and-coming designers based in São Paulo are pushing the needle forward in fashion and creativity. Pege is one such brand, designed and made locally, with a range of clothing, bags and shoes that are trend-forward, understated and playful. Stocked in Pinga, the brand also has its own boutique in Barra Funda that carries designers such as Barcelona-based Brazilian jewelry designer Nathalie Schreckenberg and Buenos Aires-based womenswear brand Ferrens.
Leiteria Ita
Leiteria Ita is a traditional, old-school Brazilian restaurant opened in 1953 that has maintained its classic look and feel with a no-frills menu and inexpensive prices. Sit at the counter and order prato feito, a Brazilian specialty which translates to “composed plate,” consisting of rice, beans, meat and eggs. The bustling diner is always filled with regulars — line up, come hungry and leave full and happy.
Padoca do Maní
Get Brazilian breakfast at Padoca do Maní, the casual-cafe version of acclaimed, fine dining restaurant Mani. Known for its pão de queijo, the artisanal bakery has a full daytime menu with healthy options like avocado toast, homemade bread and Brazilian delicacies.
