Having opened its doors just over six weeks ago, an atmosphere of congenial coolness already defines Duke’s Brew and Que, giving off the impression that this new brew pub and BBQ joint has long been nestled comfortably in its corner on Downham Road
Having opened its doors just over six weeks ago, an atmosphere of congenial coolness already defines Duke’s Brew and Que, giving off the impression that this new brew pub and BBQ joint has long been nestled comfortably in its corner on Downham Road in east London. Flanked on all sides by quick-rising property developments, Duke’s retains much of the local spirit of the Duke of York – the pub from which it was converted – while the recently added moose horn chandelier is an indication of the direction this venture has taken, with its American-style BBQ and craft beers made on the premises.
The Beavertown microbrewery, founded by former Sons of Albion frontman Logan Plant (son of Robert Plant), is the Brew side of Duke’s Brew & Que. During a post-gig visit to Fette Sau in Brooklyn a couple of years back, Plant had an epiphany about just how much could be accomplished with some well-made craft beer and a top quality BBQ menu. Then, nearly a year and a half ago, he was introduced to Byron Knight, manager of the hugely popular cocktail and Mexican food bar, Off Broadway, and the two quickly realised they had the same vision. Knight, originally from LA, now holds up the Que side of the Duke’s equation.
When we visit Duke’s they have been serving food for exactly one week. Both Plant and Knight tell us that the menu is still a work in progress; that they’re experimenting with different butchers and suppliers, and working with consultant chefs – but that they definitely know what they’re looking for. “BBQ can be a lot of things,” Knight explains. “But for me, you can’t just smother something in flavour; you’ve got to taste the quality of the meat. It’s about spicing things up, without covering them up. It’s got to be about balance.”
"You can’t just smother something in flavour; you’ve got to taste the quality of the meat"
At Duke’s the meat is prepared in the traditional American way: very slowly and very smoked. And while it's still early days, already Duke’s ribs are pretty close to perfection. Coming straight out of the hot smoker, they arrive at our table steeped in spice, but not overly wet with sauce; the flavours go deep, rather than come off on your fingertips. The texture is firm around the edges and soft throughout. Equally as exciting, the pulled pork is bursting with flavour, the oversized potato wedges are crispy, and the traditionally-made Caesar salad is creamy and salty with anchovies and parmesan.
Plant’s microbrewed ales are the right-on companions to all of this barbecued, meaty splendour. Ranging in styles from Neck Oil, which he describes as an “easy to drink session ale,” that is “representational of the Midlands where I’m from,” to Eight Ball, a rye IPA with a big malt body made with American hops, to The Godfather, a generous all-rounder, Beavertown brews are joined by some of the finest guest ales around – including the one that becomes a fast favourite for us, Hot Rod Rye from California’s Bear Republic Brewing Co. Plant looks forward to further experimentation, including a smoked porter inspired by traditional London brews, which will soon be on tap. Also on the cards is a series of Brewmaster evenings, during which beers will be paired with menus by visiting chefs from around the world (as well as from just down the road), and hosted by Hannah Vernon, Duke’s cellar master extraordinaire.
As we finish our meal the crowd shifts from families enjoying brunch to groups of friends out for the evening, and we decide to stay for just a little while longer. Duke’s is a hard place to leave, and we’re already planning our return to try their American brunch menu, and, of course, for more brew and more que.
Other bites: Much to our delight, the Young Turks have extended their residency at the Ten Bells in Spitalfields Market until end of April. A creative, ever-changing, and affordable tasting menu that’s not to be missed…
Text by Ananda Pellerin
Neil and Ananda visited Duke’s on Saturday March 10, and stayed for most of the day. Duke’s serves BBQ from 6pm - 10:30pm every night (10pm Sundays), and brunch from 10am – 3:30pm at weekends.
