The group behind this Chelsea restaurant are singularly determined to provide traditional British food that is homemade and sophisticated in equal measure. With a menu favouring classics that would be at home in an Eton cookbook, our meal was proof
The group behind this Chelsea restaurant are singularly determined to provide traditional British food that is homemade and sophisticated in equal measure. With a menu favouring classics that would be at home in an Eton cookbook, our meal was proof of what can be done with seemingly outdated dishes when they are made with the highest quality ingredients and the right attention to detail. Highlights for us were the buttery and satisfying Beef Wellington, the breakfast-for-dinner delight of eggs with corned beef hash, and the just-so-sweet bread and butter pudding. In a formal yet unstuffy dining room of rich, dark colours – which houses an unexpected collection of contemporary European art – the atmosphere is lush, cosy and calming. Known also for their superb Sunday roasts – for which they cut the meat directly at your table – The Penny Black suits a languorous night out, or simply a moment of mid-week escape.
"With a menu favouring classics that would be at home in an Eton cookbook, our meal was proof of what can be done with seemingly outré dishes, when they are made with the highest quality ingredients and the right attention to detail."
Head Chef Jan Chanter’s resume is long and impressive. Having worked for Jamie Oliver and Ben O’Donoghue at Monte’s, he then followed O’Donoghue to the Atlantic Bar and Grill, under the direction of Oliver Peyton. He also did stints at The Frontline and The Cuckoo Club, and was Head Chef of The Ballroom, in the City of London. Finally deciding to take on his own venture with staff he’d met at the Atlantic, Chanter launched the Penny Black, named after the first adhesive postage stamp, and quickly attracted a dedicated local following.
As well as providing a solid, seasonal British menu that’s not afraid to dig deep into the past and redefine the classics, The Penny Black is also dedicated to their roster of UK suppliers of produce, meat and fish, as well as an impressive list of British wines. Slowly gaining in popularity, some of Britain’s most prominent winemakers can be found on the menu here, including Chapel Down, Nyetimber and Biddenden. And while the British reds we’ve had are still struggling to find their identity, the sparkling yet dry Nyetimber Rose 2007 remains one of our favourite pre-dinner drinks, while the Bacchus Reserve 2009 from Chapel Down is heralded by The Penny Black as their favourite English white. Alongside their expertise at retro favourites, they are one of the few places taking the risk with UK wines.
Text by Ananda Pellerin
Ananda Pellerin is a London-based writer and Neil Wissink is a visual artist also based in London. More from The Hunger here, and contact The Hunger here.
