There’s a certain look chefs get that lets you know they’re proud of their meat locker, and Newman Street Tavern’s Peter Weeden, despite his natural modesty, most certainly has it. And rightly so...
There’s a certain look chefs get that lets you know they’re proud of their meat locker, and Newman Street Tavern’s Peter Weeden, despite his natural modesty, most certainly has it. And rightly so. The hanging carcasses he’s showing us, all sourced from small suppliers, will be carefully aged beyond commercial standards, and butchered on-site to be used directly, or for their homemade charcuterie.
Weeden, who worked at Quaglino’s in its heyday, was head chef at the Paternoster Chophouse for seven years before launching his first restaurant in central London a few months back. Opening around the corner from bustling Charlotte Street, the Newman Street Tavern has extended the dining possibilities of Fitzrovia, whether for an elegant yet relaxed dinner, or for a very relaxed weekend lunch. Having accidentally wiled away a Saturday afternoon here, we can assure you it is very easy to do, and a pleasant proposition indeed.
Weeden is a chef whose rigour – in sourcing, and in his relationships with suppliers – as well as his dedication to seasonality and sustainability, are not just lip service, but the foundations of an ethos that can be clearly discerned from what ends up on the menu. For instance, since opening just before Christmas, the Newman Street Tavern have served 41 species of fish, taking in what was fresh and appealing from their favourite small team of fishermen.
"the Newman Street Tavern has extended the dining possibilities of Fitzrovia, whether for an elegant yet relaxed dinner, or for a very relaxed weekend lunch"
They also pride themselves on sourcing the finest British shellfish, and our server is exuberant about the Dublin Bay prawns, which we happily order to begin our meal. Sweet, meaty, and clean, they look positively graphic in their composition, and almost too beautiful to eat. Almost. For our main we order a current special that has been causing a bit of excitement, namely the leg of suckling kid served with wet garlic. A rare find on menus in London at any time, we are apparently in good company, as Giles Coren and Yotam Ottolenghi both partook on recent visits. Kid is similar in taste, yet arguably more interesting than lamb – heartier perhaps, and more refined than goat. Another main, the pork belly, made from the UK native Middle White breed, is rendered down until the fat reaches the ideal consistency – a perfect balance of softness and crackle. A side of spiced cauliflower brings back memories of the best kinds of curry powder, and the blood orange and Campari granita is a fresh and bright end to a traditionally cooked meal handled with a light contemporary touch.
The Newman Street Tavern is split between a casual downstairs dining room akin to an upscale country pub, and an upstairs dining room that is slightly more formal. Both are open and inviting, with high ceilings and plenty of light. With its green matte walls that are covered, salon-style, with framed images – old Vogue illustrations, aquatic photos taken by a marine biologist, photos Weeden took himself – the Newman Street Tavern is a welcome addition to central London. And as is the case with the high quality beef Weeden is so proud to serve, the Tavern will only get better with age. We look forward to many future Saturday afternoons.
The Newman Street Tavern is at 48 Newman Street, London, W1T 1QQ. The Tavern is open from midday to 11pm for lunch and dinner, and on Sundays from 1030am – 5pm.
Text by Ananda Pellerin
Ananda Pellerin is a London-based writer and Neil Wissink is a visual artist also based in London. More from The Hunger here, and contact The Hunger here.
