In the latest instalment of our food column, The Hunger, we look the Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus
Headed up by two-star Michelin chef Claude Bosi, Hibiscus has been a long-time Mayfair favourite, especially for artists and dealers visiting London for Frieze Art Fair. Hibiscus started life in 2000 in Ludlow, Shropshire, before Bosi made the move to London six years later. With contemporary British art adorning the walls, and only a handful of tables in the spacious dining room, the atmosphere is one of refined relaxation, well-suited to an expansive evening enjoying Bosi’s seasonally-minded tasting menu.
"Bosi’s approach is characterised by an insistence on freshness, bold combinations, and a flair for sauces and reductions."
As part of recent renovations to the dining room, the menu has also been fitted with a new concept. Starting with a quote from gastronomic legend Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin – “the discovery of a new dish confers more happiness on humanity, than the discovery of a new star” – the menu is a mood board of seasonal flavours rather than an explanation of the dishes: Adour foie gras, Perigold truffle, or blood orange, for instance. One then decides on three, six, or eight courses, and the arrival of each dish holds an element of surprise in how the flavours have been enhanced or combined. Bosi’s approach is characterised by an insistence on freshness, bold combinations, and a flair for sauces and reductions, which is a testament to his early training in France. For instance, our grilled Isle of Skye hand dived scallops were served with pork pie sauce and pink grapefruit gel, while the smoked white asparagus came with confit orange, black truffle puree, and hazelnut oil. Across the menu the flavours are big, but light, the sauces present, but used to exacting effect. Hibiscus also houses a new development kitchen, which can be hired as a private chef’s table for up to six people, and is used by Bosi to hold masterclasses for adventurous home cooks. Also, for a more informal evening, Bosi has just launched his second gastropub, The Malt House in Fulham, as a follow-up to the popular Fox and Grapes in Wimbledon Common.
Text by Ananda Pellerin
Ananda Pellerin is a London-based writer and Neil Wissink is a visual artist also based in London. More from The Hunger here, and contact The Hunger here.
