The Hunger considers the rise of the British Brasserie
Upscale, relaxed, consistent. These are some of the core qualities that traditionally make a good French brasserie. With the recent boom of east London openings over the past few years, we detect a very British version of this French favourite starting to take hold. Setting up shop in old warehouse spaces, railway arches, and buildings with similarly industrial pasts, many restaurateurs have been transforming these spaces into considered culinary refuges with menus focused around British produce, seasonality, and letting the high quality ingredients do their thing, with very little intervention. One such spot is Beagle, which opened to great anticipation on Geffrye Street several months back. Head chef James Ferguson was fresh from the ever-popular Rochelle Canteen, where he worked under Margot Henderson’s wing, and he previously worked with Angela Hartnett.
New season garlic, broad beans, bacon and bread soup; pigeon and prune terrine – these are representative of the type of starters you’ll find at The Beagle; careful combinations of enticing ingredients, alongside more traditional pairings such as English asparagus with Berkswell and fried bantam egg. Mains are a healthy mix of land – grilled kid with smoked aubergine and green sauce; and sea – plaice, sea purslane and cucumber. Or you can opt to share (as we did), the succulent aged Dexter rib, with duck fat chips and horseradish. For dessert: the pleasingly tart lemon sorbet served with a chilled shot of Sicilian lemon vodka.
"Many restaurateurs have been transforming industrial spaces into considered culinary refuges with menus focused around British produce, seasonality, and high quality ingredients"
About a ten minute walk down the road you’ll find Rivington Shoreditch, a similarly smart but casual dining room, albeit located in a less industrial setting. Here they offer minute steaks and fries, devilled solent mackerel with tomato and fennel and potted Cornish crab served with toast and mayonnaise. Our favourite was the deceptively simple, yet exquisite garden vegetable salad with sheep’s cheese and rapeseed oil dressing. In both cases, one can’t help but think the owners have been inspired by a tried and tested Gallic tradition of good, honest food, and dining rooms that are conducive to long lingering meals. Both take care and attention with their wine and beer lists as well, with a mix of local and international – another nod to the traditional brasserie.
For another channel crossing close to home, move over to Pall Mall, where luxury hotel The Balcon has recently introduced The Boy’s Board, a “Gentlemen’s platter” inspired by Arthur Boy Capel, friend and lover to Coco Chanel. Intended as a robust lunch or afternoon indulgence, or perfect for an early evening sharing plate, the Boy’s Board reflects the hotel’s dual French and English heritage, with a Cornish cheese scone, air dried ham, a black pudding Scotch egg, pork and foie gras pie, and homemade pickles. Served in The Balcon’s elegant open dining room, the Boy’s Board is best enjoyed slowly, with a fine English craft beer.
Text by Ananda Pelleirn
