Lead ImageJess is wearing a nylon hooded jacket by DKNY
The seminal oversized collections that Maison Martin Margiela presented for its S/S and A/W00 cemented the trend for misfitting clothing in contemporary wardrobes. Throwing tailoring tradition to the wind, models walked the runway in what appeared to be a grown-up iteration of children playing dress-up in their parents’ wardrobes: huge, masculine blazers, super long sleeves and ballooning suit trousers which altered proportion and silhouette in more ways than one.
Cleverly subverted silhouettes are just as vital an injection of energy for S/S17 as they were at the turn of the century, as Mark Peckmezian and Agata Belcen demonstrate in AnOther Magazine. Here, we examine ways to wear the trend; with neat tricks from a nonchalantly unzipped fly to downtrodden shoes, even the most seemingly straightforward garments are transformed.
1. Tent
An oversized hooded garment fastened tightly around the head serves as a wonderful rain-proof solution for those prone to frizz.
Jess is wearing button-fly jeans and T-shirt by AG Jeans
2. Undone
Undone flies are the ultimate sartorial mishap, but when worn with brazen conviction a classic pair of blue jeans with a couple of buttons left unfastened can be surprisingly sexy.
Noemie is wearing her own jeans and socks, leather brogues with rubber soles by Church's. Jess is wearing a striped shirt (throughout) by Budd Shirtmakers
3. Flattened
Transform a sensible brogue into an unconventional mule by stepping on the back and flattening the leather.
Jess is wearing a suit by Tagliatore 0205 (customised by John Skelton)
4. Customised
Unpicking and reconstructing a suit ensures complete control of proportion and fit. Style with an XXL cotton shirt poking out from the unfinished sleeves for wabi-sabi businesswoman realness.
Jess is wearing an asymmetric denim dress by 3.1 Phillip Lim, kitten heels (throughout) by AGL
5. Unzipped
A simple denim dress becomes a statement when a disobedient zip sneaks upwards to reveal your hipbone. Knickers optional.
Jess is wearing a waxed trench coat and knitted high-waisted briefs by Margaret Howell
6. Trench
The oversized, waxed trench coat is a strong way to start when flirting with ill-fitting outerwear. Wear yours with nothing but skin tight body-con to highlight its roomy silhouette.
Jess is wearing a striped shirt by Budd Shirtmakers, collarless shirt (pinned to her side) and wide-legged trousers by Ports 1961
7. Multi-Sleeved
Add volume to an already billowing striped shirt by pinning a secondary garment to its side. A black patent leather heel keeps it on the right side of Wee Willie Winky.
Hair Naoki Komiya at Julien Watson Agency; Make-up Nami Yoshida at Bryant Artists using Chanel; Models Jess PW at Storm, April Alexander at W Model Management; Casting Noah Shelley at AM Casting; Set design Janina Pedan at The Magnet Agency.
