Canadian-born Thomas Tait presented his second collection during London Fashion Week earlier this year. Since his graduation from Central Saint Martins MA in 2010, Tait has concentrated on his sleek, structured silhouettes and restricted colour
Canadian-born Thomas Tait presented his second collection during London Fashion Week earlier this year. Since his graduation from Central Saint Martins MA in 2010, Tait has concentrated on his sleek, structured silhouettes and restricted colour palettes. His attention to detail is impressive, from the shoes he designs to accompany his looks, to the slick black hangers used in the showroom. Here AnOther spoke to the designer about his career progression, his key influences and his working process
Your work is very skilled and you seem very focused. Did you feel any pressure knowing you were the youngest person to complete an MA at Central Saint Martins?
I didn't really see it as added pressure, it's just a number. I applied for the course when I was 20 because it felt like the right thing to do. I feel the same about my current work and goals. I do things because it feels right.
Did you always intend to launch your own brand after graduating last year?
I think so. Obviously starting a company takes time and serious consideration. I did realise when finishing my studies that the manner in which I worked was similar to what a creative director would do – overseeing all parts of the brand.
What were you doing in Canada before you decided to study at Central Saint Martins?
Before I moved to London to start my MA, I was living in Montreal, finishing my DEC studies at technical college – it was fashion design but from a technical perspective. I learnt a lot – from the history of fibres and weaving to pattern cutting, draping and the fundamentals of dressmaking. It really shaped the way I work and interact with garments. I never really wanted to study fashion until quite late. I eventually recognised that I had been dissatisfied with the way things had looked for so long. I kept noticing a gap between the way I imagined things, and what I was seeing around me.
I particularly enjoy how you play with structure and weight of fabrics. Do you focus on these elements when designing?
Definitely. I think that's been apparent in my first two seasons as I've been focusing on establishing my style of cut and fit. I've spent a lot of time laying the 'foundations' for it is what I do. In the future I'll have the chance to elaborate on my inspiration and creative development with a sturdy springboard of cuts and shapes to work from.
What are your thoughts on minimalist fashion, in terms of quality and serenity? Can you relate to it?
I've noticed that people in the industry interpret minimalism in very different ways. I wouldn't like to classify my work as minimalist because I know that my work will continue to change. I also know that my inspiration and plans for future are not necessarily minimalist. I often begin with a complex image of what I would like a collection to look like; with time (and a lot of work) the work becomes more refined. I can be quite obsessive and have noticed things do end up becoming more "minimal" than I originally intended.
Which artists and designers are you influenced by?
I couldn't confidently single one as I only studied at an art school for one and half years. I often feel pretentious singling out works of art, artists or design legends of the past as influences or inspiration. That said, I do admire the working processes of Gregory Crewdson, Azzedine Alaïa and Dan Colen.
I really love your accessories. Can you tell me more about the shoes and belts?
I designed them all myself. The shoes were made specifically for the show. I'm currently looking for a shoe manufacturer, as I would love to sell them. I've had so many sale requests and have had to sadly turn them down because I don't have any manufacturing resources for footwear. The leather accessories are part of a project I've been doing with ASOS called INC. It gives designers the opportunity to develop a range of goods that is separate and complimentary to their own work. I've learnt a lot about leather goods and it's helped me financially.
Thomas Tait A/W11 is stocked at Browns, London.
All clothes and shoes by Thomas Tait A/W11+
Hats from Macculloch & Wallis
Socks by Trasparenze at MyTights.com
Photography: Michael Hemy
Text and Styling: Nobuko Tannawa
Hair: Yumi Nakada using Aveda
Make-up: Thomas de Kluyver @ D+V using MAC Cosmetics
Model: Chloe Memisevic @ Oui Management
Photography assistant: Rasha Kahil
Styling assistant: Aiko Koike
Thanks to BDI
