Prints, sports luxe, dogtooth, golf shoes – just some of the key stories to come from the recent Spring/Summer 2012 shows in Milan. Showcased in our gallery are some of the highlights, captured over the past four days by photographer Stefano Viti.
The upcoming 2012 Olympics was a key influence, with many designers playing homage to a traditional sport. For Moncler Gamme Bleu, Thom Browne focused on fencing, and at Prada, Miuccia showed her golf-inspired collection on a lawn of Astro Turf, comprising zany printed caps and shirts and three-colour patent leather golf shoes. The Prada prints were standout – arguably of the city's highlights and perfect fetter for the upcoming campaigns and retail selections.
British style was another popular point of reference – at Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton cited 'English Rock' and explored the style of 60s rock'n'roll musicians and the East End's legendary gangster Kray twins. Gucci's Frida Giannini looked at Michael Caine in the 60s, in particular his role in the film Alfie (interestingly whose style was originally inspired by the Krays). One of the popular prints from the 60s – dogtooth and houndstooth check – was used by a number of designers including Neil Barrett and Giorgio Armani.
At Jil Sander, Raf Simons had looked at current Serpentine resident Mark Leckey's video work Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore. The show had a particular 90s aesthetic, with crocheted jumpers and long fringes heavy with hair gel, reminiscent of the boys from one's school days.
Paris Menswear runs until Sunday June 26 2011.
Text by Laura Bradley
