The fashion world has numerous successful double-acts – namely Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana and Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren, and, since 2006, sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. They are also the focus of this week’s Most Loved on the
The fashion world has numerous successful double-acts – namely Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana and Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren, and, since 2005, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. They are also the focus of this week’s Most Loved on the AnOther Loves stream: Rodarte at Pitti Woman, Florence as loved by Dan Thawley, editor in chief of A MAGAZINE curated by. The Pitti Immagine event, in which Rodarte exhibited, is devoted to special projects in women’s fashion and was this year held last month. Amongst 88 specially selected international brands presenting exclusive previews and capsule collections for spring/summer 2012, Rodarte’s impressive installation of ten gowns was definitely the standout exhibit of the annual four-day extravaganza. Situated in an abandoned, dilapidated clothing store, the two customised the space with neon tubing and an ancient, cracked mirror. Hanging beautifully from the ceiling were then of Rodarte’s long, draped and dusty coloured gowns which appeared like classical art sculptures, almost mirroring the Renaissance glories of Florence. However instead of ending up in clothing stores for women to buy and wear, the pieces will eventually become part of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s permanent collection. We caught a few moments with Thawley before the Yohji Yamamoto S/S12 menswear show in Paris to ask him about Pitti and his love for Rodarte.
Why did you choose to Love Rodarte at Pitti Woman, Florence?
I've been following their work for a long time, and since S/S11 have been continuing a dialogue with the designers for an exciting project for the future.
What makes Pitti such a notable event?
It takes the commercial power of a largescale trade fair and focuses on two exciting fashion designers each season (last time it was Gareth Pugh). They are able to realise installations and events above and beyond a traditional runway show.
Were there any other works at Pitti that you were particularly fond of?
The Parisian curator Olivier Saillard's performance show was a wonderful example of his quirky yet elegant vision – he showed menswear on women in wild and wonderful mutations.
What qualities of the Rodarte designs did you particularly like?
Each dress held so many exciting textures that seemed to just hold onto each other – like delicate flowers. The contrast of the cell-like rooms and Alexandre Betak's harsh fluro lighting was breathtaking.
Rodarte’s presentation was truly captivating, are there any other designers whom you think always put on a good show – who and why?
I think UNDERCOVER's Jun Takahashi has an incredible eye for bizarre details – be it his live 'Grace' doll-making shows or the tiny mirror one could find on the seat of his A/W11 womenswear show.
Who wears Rodarte best and why?
I love Guinevere van Seenus in Rodarte, she embodies their aesthetic beautifully with her Renaissance features and milky skin. And of course, Kirsten Dunst.
What is on your wishlist for A/W11?
Ann Demeulemeester's pale grey voile trousers.
What was the last thing you bought?
Pale tortoiseshell sunglasses from Céline in Paris.
What’s your favourite online shop?
At the moment I love LN-CC, I get lost in their book selection and they have all my favourite labels.
Text by Lucia Davies
