Pearls have numerous meanings, from chic feminity and perfection to the Ancient Greek view of them as a symbol of marriage and love. Subsequently, the rare, pure and precious object is a recurring theme in visual culture...
Pearls have numerous meanings, from chic feminity and perfection to the Ancient Greeks' view of them as a symbol of marriage and love. Subsequently, the rare, pure and precious object is a recurring theme in visual culture, appearing in countless religious scriptures, Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer's infamous 17th century masterpiece, Girl With a Pearl Earring and worn on a long string, the staple of Coco Chanel's wardrobe. French and Greek jeweller Melanie Georgeacopoulos is the latest creative to use the pearl as the starting point of her designs. Trained at Edinburgh College of Art and the Royal College of Art, Georgeacooulos uses the organic precious stones in striking, beautifully simple necklaces, pendants, sliced earrings and rings. For her autumn/winter 2011 collection, her Arlequin necklace features two halves of different coloured pearls, perfectly matched in size and pieced together; each pearl carefully worked on for up to four hours. Here, AnOther speaks to the designer about background, her interest in pearls and her working process.
How do you think your upbringingtr has informed your work?
I come from a mixed background so from a young age, I travelled a lot and was exposed to a wide spectrum of cultures and ideas. I grew up in Greece surrounded by monuments and artefacts so naturally I became interested in art. As a teenegar I was always drawing and making things, at some point I realised that it would be fun to wear some of it too. I became interested in fashion much later when I realised that accessories are part of a bigger picture that we project of ourselves. I decided to study sculpture in Edinburgh before moving to London in 2005 to study a MA in jewellery at the Royal College which was by far the most creative, busy, intense and challenging time I have had so far.
How would you describe your design philosophy and your aesthetic?
I am very drawn to geometry and simple lines. I think of a piece as an object which touches the skin, how it feels on the body but also how it looks when it is not worn. I try to make jewellery that will stand the test of time and will still be relevant and interesting in the future.
When did you first start working with pearls?
I inherited my grandmother's pearl necklace during my time at the Royal College and that was what triggered my curiosity about pearls – how they are made, how they have been used so far and perceived. Freshwater pearls come in a variety of sizes and colors and are more affordable.
How would you describe your working process?
I usually start designing on paper – nothing specific at first just drawing things around me, shapes, people, then I pick out what looks most interesting and see how it can be translated into a piece of jewellery. The next step is making prototypes which is by far the most challenging and most rewarding, full of surprises, good ones and bad ones! Once these are finished I select the most interesting pieces and create the next collection.
How would you describe your customer?
A confident woman, who has a good sense of style which suits her, who doesnt follow trends and who builds her wardrobe and accessories gradually and methodically.
Melanie Georgacopoulos is stocked at shops including Dover Street Market, Colette and Corso Como.
Text by Laura Bradley
