London S/S12: Tropical at Peter Pilotto

On Monday morning at 9am on the old Eurostar platform at Waterloo, Christopher Vos Dos and Peter Pilotto transported us to the tropics of Indonesia – the source of inspiration for the duo’s latest Peter Pilotto S/S12 collection. Influenced by the island’s exotic flora and fauna, vibrant and clashing prints referenced the shadows and silhouettes cast by leaves when gazing through tree canopies. Other pieces featured graphic, blown-up and distorted local flowers and whitecaps of waves which were printed on voluminous skirts, mimicking the shape of crashing tides. Feminine and fitted silhouettes contrasted with sportswear and scuba detailing with garments featuring a neoprene trim (also seen at Richard Nicoll the day before) and industrial zippers.

Renowned for their manipulated prints it was to be expected that there would be an abundance throughout the Peter Pilotto S/S12 collection, however it was interesting to see their new three-dimensional print effect using embroidery and beading. PVC leaves, timepiece findings and crystals were hand applied over two-dimensional printed fabric to intriguing effect, showing progression and exploration.

Styling details such as the model’s slicked back hair (by Duffy, Nice & Easy) which swung and dripped with water as they strode down the catwalk and Nicholas Kirkwood shoes which echoed the floral beading, coloured plexi details, and prints found in the collection – put the finishing touches to this powerful, if a little literal at times, collection.

Anna Dello Russo, Editor-at-Large and Creative Consultant for Vogue Japan: “The Peter Pilotto show was great. It concentrated on what they started to do in the beginning: an explosion of print. Now they have really focused this. It’s all very well done, considered and more sophisticated with the embellishment and really good working of proportion.”

Text by Lucia Davies