For its 13th season MAN offered up its strongest show to date. Shaun Samson and Matthew Miller joined returning MAN designer Martine Rose...
Lulu Kennedy, Director and Founder of Fashion East and MAN Panelist: “I thought that this was maybe our best one yet, or in a long time. I think it was really strong and each of them had their own distinct aesthetic. There are a lot of things I want to wear: I want Shaun’s shorts that have the denim degrade, Martine’s shirts – the striped ones over the neon and Matthew’s slack shoes.”
In its 13th season Fashion East and Topman showcased the work of three emerging menswear designers as part of MAN. As voted for by an esteemed panel of judges Shaun Samson and Matthew Miller joined returning designer Martine Rose on the final menswear day of London Fashion Week. Whilst Samson and Rose were inspired by the skate and surf subcultures of California (Shaun is a native), Miller looked to the future of function and necessity in the masculine wardrobe.
Tipped as a one-to-watch, Samson brought vivid Mexican prints down the MAN catwalk at the Topman Show Space in the Royal Opera House. Using his signature felting technique he fused the print into traditional shirting fabrics and denim, teaming them with long wide shorts. Patterned knits were also blended with fine cashmere giving a high-end Kurt Cobain feel.
With similar reference points but a contrasting aesthetic, Rose’s long haired boys (and two girls) came dressed in layered shirts over neon tees and graffiti-inspired prints. Inspiration from Cobain’s subversion of the 20th century man, with his appearances in dresses and skirts, lent to the idea of wearing sheer culottes over trousers.
Miller’s collection was distinctly more aerodynamic – looking into the functionality and technical aspects of sportswear. With a passion for technology, 3D computer programmes were used to construct garments, industrial safety hardware visually realised in lightweight aluminium accessories, stoplight and waterborn technical fabrics used for outerwear and technical drawings made into prints. Complimenting the more sporty pieces, structured tailoring appeared in neutral colours offset with responsive strips of neon.
Text by Lucia Davies
