The third generation of tailors to emerge from his family, Neil Barrett has precision and creativity built into his genes. A former designer for Gucci and Prada, Barrett launched his own men's line in 1999, with womenswear following in 2006 and has
The third generation of tailors to emerge from his family, Neil Barrett has precision and creativity built into his genes. A former designer for Gucci and Prada, Barrett launched his own men's line in 1999, with womenswear following in 2006 and has become reputable for his minimalist approach and Italian craftsmanship.
Much of Barrett's inspiration can be credited to actress Robin Wright Penn – muse for his womenswear collection. “She has this effortless style that combines masculinity and fluidity,” explains Barrett. “She mixes hard and soft very, very well. She looks effortlessly cool.” Effortlessly cool is an apt description of Barrett’s new S/S12 collection, which he presented in Paris on Saturday.
As a designer that makes distinct connections between collections, in seems appropriate to reflect on his designs for A/W11 – a relaxed blend of floor-length drapery, low waists and roundnecks, inspired by a contrasting mix of traditional British heritage and youth culture. “My collections have a sexual femininity, but not a vulgar one,” says Barrett, “it is about having a subtle, understated undercurrent of sexuality within it without being obvious.” The A/W11 line marks a change in direction for Barrett – his signature monochrome colour palette has been interrupted by bursts of chestnut and butterscotch, indicating that he is branching out in his approach. “It is something I am considering more with each season. Looking to every tone of the one colour.” The Barrett staples are still there: architectural pea coats, tailored jackets and plenty of leather, but they have been softened in the form of loose trousers and feminine pleating, which provide an aura of sensitivity amongst the somewhat primitive blend of fur and leather. He has also experimented more with print, featuring checks and stripes, teamed with paneled utility jackets that crossover from the menswear collection.
Here, the designer shares his ideas and inspirations behind his S/S12 collection.
How did you select your prints?
I took traditional British prints – checks and stripes, and unravelled them – distorting and enlarging shapes and patterns. We took this idea from the menswear line and put them onto women’s fabrics – sheens, silks, viscose drapes, all very soft and fluid.
Did you look to any previous decades to inspire your collection?
I look to the Victorian era and to the traditional man’s wardrobe – what the traditional Brit would wear, then make it abstract and more original. I then translate this for the female form.
What is it about youth culture that inspires you?
I find youth culture incredibly inspiring, it has a great energy. I always try to find one element of youth culture and mix it with something else so that it comes out as something different as opposed to a pastiche. I took a lot of inspiration from ska for this collection.
What pieces or ideas have you carried into S/S12 from your A/W11 collection?
The whole hybrid of combining elements together is something we consistently try to push and take from season to season – two garments such as trousers and dresses blended together or pea coats and biker jackets. That is key within my collection.
Text by Mhairi Graham
