Chronicling and archiving the Irish designer’s magnificent oeuvre, a new Rizzoli-published tome celebrates a decade of the brand
In just over a decade, Simone Rocha has conjured a distinct realm of femininity through her designs, embroidered and laced with a litany of references from her lived experience as a woman and a mother of dual Irish-Chinese backgrounds, as well as from her insatiable curiosity for the arts. To mark the first decade of her career, Rizzoli has released a dedicated monograph, edited by Climax Books founder and former Dazed editor-in-chief Isabella Burley, to chronicle and archive Rocha’s magnificent oeuvre.
“I have always documented my work and world through self-published printed matter,” the designer explains, “but when Rizzoli approached me to do a monograph of the first decade of my work, I was excited to relook at it as a book.”
The resulting tome, which took “many, many months” to put together, is not just a simple retrospective of her designs, but a visual and lyrical ode to each element, each inspiration, each person that comprises her world. “There are many people who have made my label what it is today, so sharing that on paper felt important,” explains Rocha.
Divided into four sections, Rocha worked “closely with Isabella Burley to try and define recurring themes in [her] work and then build chapters around them”. There is a unison to each chapter: each begins with a poetic text from Rocha, textual renderings of the same sentiments that weave her collections together, and is unpacked with interviews, essays, and photographic studies of her work. “In the end it also felt like a bit of thesis,” she reflects.
To assemble such a prolific book was, in many ways, a trip down memory lane – not just for Rocha, but also for those in her orbit. There are interviews with the likes of Chloë Sevigny, Laila and Nadia Gohar, and Roni Horn on the wonderous impact of Rocha on their own work and selves; memories of the designer and her collections are shared by Adrian Joffe, Sarah Adelman and Anna Wintour, among many others. Of note, are two essays from Odette and John Rocha, the designer’s parents, which add a tenderness and intimacy.
“What I was really humbled by was all the conversations and work people brought to the table ... That was quite emotional for me,” she says. “Also all of the work my team has put in over the years. Their time, dedication, and craft.”
Such a retrospective, and introspective, exercise proved to be “quite cathartic” for the designer who is “naturally a very decisive person, so with every collection I’m very in the moment, but not that sentimental”. But it’s also proved to be a catalyst for future work. “I actually look back on my work quite often. I see it as one big body of work,” she reflects. “Analysing, developing, reflecting and looking back only makes me want to move forward.”
Simone Rocha is published by Rizzoli, and is available for purchase now.
