After nine years working at Louis Vuitton, Lucas Bauer launched his own line of luxurious, hand-finished body jewellery that seems to grow around the wearer
- Who is it? Lucas Bauer creates body jewellery in the truest sense, with luxurious hand-finished designs that seem to grow around the wearer
- Why do I want it? Whether it’s their names or the way they wind around the body, there is something about his jewellery that feels alive
- Where can I find it? Available on his website and at select retailers, including villa Noailles, Elevastor, and Jogging
Who is it? Born and raised in Marseille, Lucas Bauer creates body jewellery in the truest sense, with luxurious hand-finished designs that seem to grow around the wearer. Currently based in Montmartre, Paris, the 34-year-old’s work combines high-end craftsmanship with an organic freehand style, reflecting the influence of nine years working at Louis Vuitton on the expressive underground spirit of his South-of-France upbringing. After designing jewellery and accessories under Nicolas Ghesquière, he left Vuitton in 2022 to start his own brand, crafting bespoke commissions inspired by organic forms in nature and the paradoxes of growing up in a city defined by contrasts.
When Bauer was a child growing up in Marseille, the city was not the established destination it is today; it was instead a place where softness and violence collided. In Paris, culture is served up on a plate, but in Marseille, you had to dig. “There has always been this hidden scene, and my family was part of it,” he says. “Mum was a performer and yoga teacher, and my dad was an artist, and jewellery and body piercing were just always around. My mum numbed my ear with ice and pierced it with a needle and cork when I was just six, so in some ways, how could I do anything else?” As the piercings increased – Bauer has ten in both ears – he began to experiment with his own jewellery, and in time, started making pieces for other people too.
Being at a prestigious fashion house opened doors for Bauer to broaden his skills, not just in terms of researching concepts for new creations but increasing his personal knowledge of silversmithing techniques. Travelling to meet with craftspeople known for their unique abilities was an opportunity to learn, and it reinforced his love for working with fine rather than costume jewellery. “Research is a big thing for me, it’s mesmerising,” he says. “And what’s special about working at luxury brands is that they dedicate time and room for it.” This laser-sharp focus on not just the making and materials but the storytelling behind an object carries through to Hyphos, his first full collection.
Why do I want it? Whether it’s the names and personalities Bauer gives his pieces or the way they wind around the body, there is something about his jewellery that feels alive. Named after hypha, the filament-like structures that create giant subterranean ecosystems of plants and fungi, the collection pays tribute to these creeping networks of life and death. The intertwined tendrils of gold and silver are twisted by hand, adding a level of tactile imperfection that makes each object unique in its lack of symmetry. They explore untraditional ways of wearing jewellery through an almost symbiotic relationship with the owner, like ‘Sporo’, a lip cuff that clings on without the need for a piercing.
“I love this idea of finding other parts of the body to adorn,” he says. “There are so many ways of applying jewellery that can easily bring an unexpected edge to your personality.” This confidence to break from established codes comes as much from the world of body piercing as it does from his experience working at Vuitton, where the accessories he created for shows were not restricted to bags, hats, and belts but could be artistic expressions made of leather, glass, or wood – adornments that fit the silhouette and story without having to be commercial. “This was really important as it gave me the freedom to experiment.” This also explains why, where possible, he works instinctively rather than relying on CAD or 3D design.
Interconnecting with each other as well as the wearer, the collection’s rings, cuffs, and necklaces are designed to be stacked and wrapped in a kind of kinetic dialogue with the human form. This sense of movement is achieved by Bauer using his body as a testing ground, or host, for ideas, developing his initial sketches into prototypes that he can mould, shape, and thread around his own anatomy. The perfected designs are then brought to life by hand, working with specialist workshops in Paris and Marseille. Even a simple thread can hold a depth of meaning. “Jewellery is such a beautiful medium because you can condense so much into such a small object,” he says. “There is no necessity to it, other than to be desirable.”
Where can I find it? Available on his website and at select retailers, including villa Noailles, Elevastor, and Jogging.
