A Closer Look at Simone Rocha’s Delicate New Menswear Collection

Simone Rocha first introduced menswear to her brand almost three years ago. An Irish womenswear designer beloved for her haunting, subversive explorations of femininity and womanhood, Rocha’s entry into menswear was equally disruptive; the brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 show featured ruched men’s shirts with pearl-encrusted collars, bomber jackets drowning in clouds of tulle, and trench croats dripping in crystals. This was menswear with a twist, representing a new kind of 21st-century man who eschews traditionally masculine dress in favour of something more fluid, playful and delicate.

Paul Mescal, an actor seen as representing a new wave of masculinity that embraces vulnerability and authenticity, favours the brand for his red-carpet appearances; other celebrities that have worn the brand include Andrew Scott, Jeremy O Harris, Eddie Redmayne, Lil Uzi Vert, Troye Sivan and Bad Bunny. Of her entry into menswear, Rocha says it’s about “a sensitive approach to masculinity. I’m looking at masculinity – it’s beauty and it’s role.”

Now, following her sensual Autumn/Winter 2025 show held last month, Simone Rocha has released a separate lookbook celebrating its menswear offering. Shot by Eimear Lynch and styled by the brand’s longtime collaborator Robbie Spencer, the lookbook sees the collection’s main inspiration – The Tortoise and the Hare fable, introduced to Rocha by her old headmistress – plays out via miniature tortoises sculptures and faux fur stole toys held by models underarm or tied around the neck. 

This season, Rocha tells us she riffed on “stereotypes of menswear associated with youth, with different characters being portrayed through the garments.” In the lookbook, sheer vests with ribbons tucked inside, pearl-encrusted rugby shirts, fur-lined parkas, neckerchiefs, crystal-encrusted denim jackets and chunky belts weighed down with hardware all point to a softer kind of masculinity, as do the props featured in the shoot – roses and books held aloft. When asked what kind of man she is hoping to dress, Rocha responds simply: “someone with a gut reaction to the clothing and an emotional connection.”