This autumn/winter 2012 has been a particularly strong season for menswear: not only has it seen designers challenge the conventions of traditional men’s dress, exploring themes and materials in particularly intriguing ways, but there has also been
This autumn/winter 2012 has been a particularly strong season for menswear: not only has it seen designers challenge the conventions of traditional men’s dress, exploring themes and materials in particularly intriguing ways, but there has also been a distinct shift in people’s perceptions. Previously deemed subsidiary to the womenswear shows, last week the British Fashion Council announced that it would be hosting its own menswear showcase in June. Testament to the increasing strength of menswear, the previous men’s day during London Fashion Week will expand to additionally run over several days from June 15–17.
Here, we ask our contributors and menswear correspondents for their highlights of the season:
Another Man creative director Alister Mackie..."The Lanvin show was a story of individuality, of a wardrobe of clothes that could be combined and mixed up at any time of day, which is why we threw the parkas over the evening wear in a way which was very nonchalant. They had the feeling of Eastern European working class heroes. We spent a lot of time casting and fitting the boys so that they looked like believable characters each one was his own story which added to the overall narrative of a cinematic street scene. The music and atmospheric lighting left it ambiguous as to the time of day."
Another Man editor Ben Cobb..."Prada, as usual, felt like 'a moment': seeing Gary Oldman, Willem Dafoe, Adrien Brody and Garrett Hedlund pound down a football pitch sized embassy carpet in Romanov splendour was, to put it mildly, special. Then, in Paris, Louis Vuitton's modern take on the global gentleman accompanied by Moroder's I Feel Love produced fashion goosebumps. I also found my dream winter wardrobe in Trussardi's ode to Jackie Stewart – 70s heaven!"
Another Man senior fashion editor Bryan McMahon..."My favourite show was Prada. My favourite piece from the season was the kaleidoscope printed Globe Trotters from Hardy Amies inspired by Busby Berkeley."
Another contributing fashion editor Robbie Spencer... "I really liked Yves Saint Laurent this season – it was both a confident and coherent collection and really represented the mood of the season: militant, activism, playing on the constraints of uniform but also carried other more fetishistic undertones. It also had an incredibly intricate and wearable use of leather, hybriding and reinterpeting classic biker jacket detailing. I like it when a brand successfully combines wearability with editorial shoot appeal and Stefano Pilati effortlessly achieved this with this A/W12 collection, and the Madonna Justify My Love soundtrack sounded pretty amazing in a catwalk show setting too!"
Dazed Digital editor David Hellqvist..."Humberto Leon and Carol Lim impressed with their first menswear show for Kenzo. They mixed enough classic Kenzo suits with more modern and young pieces, making Kenzo both relevant to today while preserving its heritage. Adam Kimmel went for a mysterious sartorial tour of Area 51 but instead of ugly aliens we saw beautiful suits in midnight blue. Kris Van Assche presented a smart and sleek army-inspired Dior Homme wardrobe with aviator glasses and olive green caps. Dries Van Noten, even though going out on limb with a very graphic print, showed tailoring and classic wardrobe pieces that confirms him as the king of menswear. Comme des Garçons pushed the boat out with a 18th century goth boy collection, Noel Fielding haircuts and Chanel-like jackets – very inspiring move by Rei Kawakubo."
AnOther and Another Man fashion editor Agata Belcen..."The Givenchy house is so strong and confident. It's wonderful to be able to understand the menswear, womenswear and couture as individual collections, but to also see their integrity as a whole."
AnOther Website commissioning editor Laura Bradley..."I love it when you see a collection that has ideas developed from a previous one – sometimes an idea is to good to let go of. Raf Simons is a regular at this – the hats that were central in his eponymous men's collection followed on from the brilliant beanie hats with veils courtesy of Stephen Jones in his women's Jil Sander A/W12 collection. Simons took headwear that has its roots in sportswear and hip hop culture and made them look chic. There was a distinctly London feel to the Diesel Black Gold collection, particularly its reference to music culture (punk styling, velvet and leather, tattoos, long hair and headphones). I really enjoyed the play on proportion – the shorter trousers worn with socks and bracelet length cable knit jumpers."
Contributing writer Kin Woo..."The Prada show was a powerful statement of intent that lingered the most in the mind after the menswear season ended, not least because of her dream cast of actors who modelled in the show. The austere, formal tailoring she sent out was her comment on 'male power' but as usual with the best Prada shows, there are so many layers to dissect. Marching regally across the gigantic red carpet, the models and actors appeared at once as pawns in a chess game and monarchs in their own right."
A MAGAZINE curated by editor Dan Thawley..."I believe the more action and interaction in fashion the better. This notion was applied with great effect at the Grand Palais for Dries Van Noten's show, as Dutch painters Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters completed a mural as the show took place, while guests sipped Absinthe cocktails that complimented Mr. Van Noten's psychedelic leitmotif. At Bernhard Willhelm, the show notes revealed that he'd found his inspiration on Tumblr (how apt), and he offered the link. Releasing my inner geek I checked it out, and found not only the greatest snippets of his riotous soundtrack, but an apocalyptic art video by Dorian and Death in Plains. These quirks and happenings show that the crossroads of art and fashion remains the most intriguing element of the industry."
Style Salvage's Steve Salter..."Cathy Horyn noted that 'there is such an emphasis these days on high-end luxury that many collections lack energy and certainly risk-taking' which summarises the prevalent mood perfectly. That said, there were still moments that excited. My own personal highlights included Claire Malcolm's kaleidescopic celebration of grey flannel for Hardy Amies, Dries Van Noten's well tailored canvas showcasing his collaboration with Dutch graphic artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters, Kris Van Assche's uniform of sartorial sportswear for Dior Homme, Jonathan Saunder's eye poppingly printastic sophomore menswear collection and Humberto Leon and Carol Lim's playful debut for Kenzo."
