London Fashion Week Exclusive: Phoebe English

“I am really fascinated how materials behave in motion and the ways you can manipulate that”, explains Phoebe English as she gives AnOther an exclusive preview of her A/W12 collection. “I think I’m drawn to the theatricality of how things move and I always return the show as an aspect that helps me design." This season will be her first solo show and since she graduated from Central Saint Martins last year (styled by Cathy Edwards here), her collections have focused on the merging of textures and the interplay of surfaces. Even with the drama of her materials (she has given us garments made entirely from hair and canvas calico crafted into structural forms) her work remains controlled, elegant and intricately crafted.

“It was a continuation of the static sculptured forms that I did for S/S12, but this time I wanted something that was structural, decorative and flat at the same time”

“I think there is a greater aspect of realism in this collection,” English tells AnOther, and this can be found in the progression and duality of her materials. Rubber, latex and industrial felted wool have been engineered to form sculptural surfaces and English has returned to knitwear to create rigid textures. These garments are overlaid to produce a collection of contrasts – where translucent latex dresses are layered underneath structural felt tops and fringes of black rubber alongside industrial knitwear. Perhaps the most interesting manipulation of materials can be found in her intricately weaved rubber garments, which create a caged structure for the body. “It was a continuation of the static sculptured forms that I did for S/S12”, she explains, “but this time I wanted something that was structural, decorative and flat at the same time”. There are also subtle sportswear references this season, which appear in the elasticated details on her waistbands and sleeves. This may be an unusual reference for English, but from looking at the images plastered onto the walls of her studio, this collection appears to be influenced by many things, from riot gang culture, Anthony Gormley spiked sculptures and bondage. Her silhouettes are clean, box-like and at times feminine. Whilst the muted colour palette gives focus to texture, materials and construction. For her catwalk show, she has collaborated with musician Gabriel Bruce (formerly of Loverman) on the soundtrack. “Gabriel is a childhood friend of mine and I have known him since he was born”, she explains, “He is an artist in a very pure sense of the word and he really captures the mood of the collection”.

Here, we exclusively present English's S/S12 film directed by Marie Kristiansen, created using a series of surrealist scenarios.

Phoebe English debuts her A/W12 collection today at 18.30 at the Merit Award Show for Vauxhall Fashion Scout. The show will be streamed live from phoebeenglish.com. Her S/S12 collection is available exclusively at Dover Street Market.

Text by Isabella Burley

S/S Film Credits
Director: Marie Kristiansen
Director's Assistant: Christian Schaanning
Model: Mary-Elizabeth
Hair/Make up: Kiri Mellalieu
Sound by In Fields
Runners: Adnan Jalal, Joshua Beaty