From Audrey Hepburn in an oversized tuxedo shirt in Breakfast at Tiffanys or Uma Thurman a la Pulp Fiction, to Lana Del Rey at the Mulberry A/W12 show this week, the white shirt has long been established as an augmented staple...
From Audrey Hepburn in an oversized tuxedo shirt in Breakfast at Tiffanys or Uma Thurman a la Pulp Fiction, to Lana Del Rey at the Mulberry A/W12 show this week, the white shirt has long been established as an augmented staple within the female wardrobe. A couturier of the crisp white, Margaret Howell holds the title for monarch of the tailored classic. What began in 1972 as a small business out of her living room has steadily grown to become a globally recognised label for timeless backbone basics and reliable British craftsmanship.
Her signature staple is celebrated in a S/S12 photography collaboration with South African-born photographer Koto Bolofo. Howell and Bolofo first joined forces in the early nineties. This time around they have recruited Dutch model Marique Schimmel and stylist Jo Levin. The first of five specialist campaigns focusing on core products within the label, the narrative follows the production line of the white shirt in a series of beautifully composed black and white images taken within the company’s North London shirt factory. Although having expanded from her living room, Howell’s production still remains an intimate workshop with a select team of machinists and handcrafted finishings. The campaign documents Howell’s acute tailoring and attention to detail, capturing the balance between endurance and delicacy.
"A couturier of the crisp white, Margaret Howell holds the title for monarch of the tailored classic"
Howell showcased her A/W12 collection on Sunday, placing the cotton-drill staple shirt with gabardine raincoats, loose tweed jackets, drop-waists, box pleats and cardigan twin sets. Flat shoes, backpacks and Tam o’Shanter bonnets completed the look. Inspired by English landscape with a military punch, the collection marched to the beat of Ed Sharpe’s Home, a song as equally recognisable and comfortable as the Margaret Howell shirt itself.
Text by Mhairi Graham
