A spectacular finale set amidst a winter wood backdrop, featuring a theatrical performance by Kristen McMenamy in a show-stopping look – it was a runway experience normally to be found exclusively in Paris; not at a London show, and certainly not
A spectacular finale set amidst a winter wood backdrop, featuring a theatrical performance by supermodel Kristen McMenamy in a show-stopping look – it was a runway experience normally to be found exclusively in Paris; not at a London show, and certainly not for a diffusion line. All in all, a truly masterful way to highlight Sarah Burton's new direction for McQ.
It's been an interesting trajectory for the house of the McQueen since the designer's passing two years ago. Under the creative direction of Sarah Burton, the house has enjoyed critically acclaimed women's, men's and pre- collections, a Royal Wedding dress, a record-breaking show at the MET and a Designer of the Year award. Achievements celebrated in the latest issue of AnOther Magazine, accompanied by Catherine Sullivan's captivating S/S12 film which also features McQueen girl-of-the-moment McMenamy. This week at London Fashion Week, McQ finally had its moment – its debut runway show and the house's first return to London in over 10 years.
"This week at London Fashion Week, McQ finally had its moment – its debut runway show and the house's first return to London in over 10 years"
Launched as a denim license in 2006, McQ has co-existed somewhat uncomfortably with the house's mainline, save for a few exciting moments (remember that brilliant MySpace casting initiative?). Following the unwritten rules of the "diffusion", "second" or "sister" line, the premise has always been to produce accessible clothing at a lower price point, usually shown at low-key presentations; an age-old idea that Burton is now challenging. Now, the McQ men's and women's line is being produced in-house, under the direction of Burton whose reinvigoration of the line relies on two key ideas: clothes should be beautiful at any price and they should incorporate the house's aesthetic, without dumbing it down. The result – an excellent succession of romantic, overblown ballgowns, practical felted wool outerwear, Black Watch tartan and military-inspired separates, styled by Camilla Nickerson and Robbie Spencer – was further evidence of Burton's talents.
The London flagship store on 14 Dover Street, London W1S 4LW is scheduled to open late Spring
Text by Laura Bradley
