One can always rely on Maison Martin Margiela to kickstart a trend. Since their inclusion of Persian rugs and carpet-inspired clothing and accessories in their S/S12 collection last October, there have been a succession of interesting carpet
One can always rely on Maison Martin Margiela to kickstart a trend. Since their inclusion of Persian rugs and carpet-inspired clothing and accessories in their spring/summer 2012 collection last October, there have been a succession of interesting carpet examples in the recent autumn/winter 2012 shows.
Their use certainly makes a refreshing change to the slick black and white catwalks we have become accustomed to. Historically carpets have been regarded in the West as prized items of furniture; in the East, they are important elements of personal, family and tribal life. As an aesthetic symbol, the carpet often gives expression to the idea of the garden, inseparable from the notion of Paradise. It is unlikely that these meanings can shed light on a fashion designer's thought process but they certainly give food for thought.
Prada kicked off in January at their men's show, installing a striking regal red carpet in the square show space. It became a talking point – not only did it echo details on Muiccia's designs, but it also neatly tied in with her "red carpet" actors who closed the show. Traditionally, red carpets can symbolise good fortune and happiness.
During the womenswear shows, Y-3 lined the runway with those favoured Persian rugs, showcasing a collection which made reference to global travel; a magic carpet ride "from Outer Mongolia to Edwardian England... Tokyo to Paris", creative director Dirk Schönberger explained backstage. In Milan, Prada and Rem Koolhass used a similar graphic carpet to that in the men's show, this time making use of one of the collection's key colours: purple. The square shapes of the carpet's design echoed the jacquard and embroidered detailing on the clothes.
Further examples of the trend came courtesy of Gucci and Christopher Kane who also used purple (colour of the season), and Just Cavalli who used animal print (of course).
Text by Laura Bradley