As the A/W12 womenswear fashion season draws to a close we can finally reflect on the highs and lows of the past five weeks of shows. From the rumours and speculations surrounding Raf Simons’ exit from Jil Sander and Jil Sander's return, Stefano
As the A/W12 womenswear fashion season draws to a close we can finally reflect on the highs and lows of the past five weeks of shows. From the rumours and speculations surrounding Raf Simons’ exit from Jil Sander and Jil Sander's return, Stefano Pilati’s exit from Yves Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane’s return, and the question marks still surrounding where Simons and Pilati will go – never has a season been filled with so much drama. On the catwalk a different kind of drama ensued, with designers bringing back the theatrics and performance element that has recently felt so lost from fashion week shows.
Here, AnOther's contributors share their personal A/W12 womenswear highlights…
Susannah Frankel, fashion features director of AnOther and fashion editor of The Independent… "Comme des Garçons was big, bold and beautiful. I tried on a rose printed coat in the showroom and was amazed how light, easy and pretty it was to wear too. I loved the big column dresses at Hussein Chalayan – modern red carpet wear if there can be such a thing – and thought the coats were perfectly proportioned. At Balenciaga the sheer inventiveness and imagination are extraordinary. I love the office worker story behind it too. Giant mushroom dresses at Alexander McQueen – what else could a woman wish for? Alber Elbaz singing que sera sera under a huge chandelier and a collection that was full of joy. Probably the most perfect tailoring in the world at Junya Watanabe. And Céline – one word: perfect..."
"Giant mushroom dresses at Alexander McQueen – what else could a woman wish for?" — Susannah Frankel
Alister Mackie, creative director of Another Man … "My personal highlight was working alongside Marc Jacobs and Venetia Scott on the beautiful Marc Jacobs show. Arriving at the venue and seeing Rachel Fienstein's set and then watching the rehearsal was a really memorable moment. Or as Marc put it the next day " haunting ". In Paris, the shows I found outstanding were Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Valentino."
Agata Belcen, fashion editor of AnOther… "The Jil Sander collection was a beautiful and serene end to his tripartite couture series of the last three seasons – unhinged by the final black looks, especially the strapless PVC dress. His voice is integral to the fashion industry as he's unapologetic in his vision of classic femininity mixed with unnerving realism – in his clothes you can read female characters who are immaculately turned out, but something unsettling lurks underneath, confined to a private sphere, while they get on with their daily duties. The woman from the Alexander McQueen world is different, but there's a drama and sensitivity there on a comparable scale. McQueen is the most awe-inspiring fashion house for craftsmanship – the nuance in the collection, the way each look built upon the previous one while opening your eyes to something unexpected made you feel giddy."
Harriet Walker, Anothermag.com columnist and fashion writer at The Independent… "At the Versace show, I really felt I was watching Donatella's return to form, bolstered by the successes of her H&M collaboration and a slot on January's couture schedule. So what if it was a bit in-your-face and brash? I loved it. Everything, from the gothic crosses, the logo play, armoured corsets and riveted bodices screamed Versace. It's refreshing to see a label take charge of its heritage and destiny in such a decisive, glamorous and - most importantly – fun-filled a move. And I loved all the models' little Rooney Mara fringes too. Would I wear it? Maybe not. But I admired the bullishness of it all."
Katie Shillingford, contributing fashion editor of AnOther... "The Marc Jacobs show in New York was definitely a highlight. I remember leaving the venue feeling super excited – those hats were incredible! Working on the Viktor & Rolf show in Paris was incredible. It was very much a performance and I loved being involved in creating that; not only working on looks and casting but working with their choreographer Natalie on the poses of the girls whilst they held a silhouette on a conveyor belt under the moon light. I think it's important that fashion shows are actually 'shows'. It also makes me so happy to see Sarah Burton stamping her mark on Alexander McQueen, it feels true to the brand but at the same time it's an exciting, new direction very much from a female point of view. The Miu Miu show saw Paris go out with a bang. Everything from the casting to the hair and make-up to the music was brilliant – not to mention the genius collection. I left on a psychedelic high."
Karen Langley, contributing fashion editor of AnOther… "I was really sad to miss Raf's last show for Jil Sander but one of my highlights was the opportunity to see Stefano PiIati's final collection for Yves Saint Laurent. It was incredible to witness such a remarkable designer end his tenure at Yves Saint Laurent on such a high and with a standing ovation."
Robbie Spencer, contributing fashion editor of AnOther… "I loved the Alexander McQueen show and collection. My favourite look was the incredible pink dress – it looked like something found in the Great Barrier Reef. Apparently, they had to pull in everyone they could possibly get to help with the creation of these finale pieces as they were so intricate and time-consuming to make. I really liked the biker jacket hybrid skirt in the finale look in the Jean Paul Gaultier show – something that I think could have been expanded on more in the collection. The paint sprayed two-tone hair that Guido created on the models was ace also. Balenciaga’s retro 1980s sci-fi sweat shirts were also a highlight – they reminded me of early 1980s LP imagery, disco albums like the Jacksons, Earth Wind and Fire, and Rock bands like Slayer and Iron maiden, with a bit of Blade Runner thrown in. I really liked the jewellery in the Dolce & Gabbana show you could have easily missed it in the show as there was so much going on. But up close at the re-see appointment they are really amazing: chokers and earrings made out of porcelain flowers, brass and lace and ribbon."
"The Miu Miu show saw Paris go out with a bang – I left on a psychedelic high" — Katie Shillngford
Laura Bradley, commissioning editor of anothermag.com... "Raf's final collection for Jil Sander was perfection, as were the accompanying flower arrangements by Mark Colle; I loved the heart-shape Raf did with his hands during the emotional finale. The way Phoebe Philo made the traditional Céline neckscarf modern. I'm always on the hunt for new "brow news": Chanel delivered this season with fantastic crystal strips courtesy of Lesage. And my girl of the moment is Jamie Bochart – loved seeing her at Givenchy, Victor & Rolf, Lanvin, Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga."
Lucia Davies, junior editor of anothermag.com... "This season it really felt like the excitement surrounding the fashion weeks was back with many designers putting on a “show” for A/W12. From the theatrical performances in McQ’s debut London show, to the incredible set design at Marc Jacobs and Chanel, the painstaking craftsmanship at Alexander McQueen, and the abstract ideas and proportions at Comme des Garçons. I also particularly liked the gothic aesthetic, which started at Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci’s haute couture presentation and reverberated through to many of the shows for this season. The “Rooney Mara/ Lisbeth Slander effect” was strongly felt at Versace and Marni, and there was a dark mood and sinister undertones at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Christopher Kane and Gareth Pugh."
Nobuko Tannawa, anothermag.com columnist… "I always get excited about the Acne show as it's shown in London and they never fail to mix the wearability and the luxury. Not many shows make you want to buy the majority of the catwalk, but everyone wants something from Acne. We all know that Miuccia Prada is a genius, every season bringing something fun and new into her aesthetics. Prada kept the colours dark with rigid tailoring, covering them in jewels, which I am dying to see in real life. Miu Miu's show was like a parade of young fashionable punks, trouser suits will be a trend for sure next season."
Compiled by Lucia Davies
