Ever since Beau Brummell declared: "If people turn to look at you in the street, you are not well dressed, but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable,” coining the term "dandy" in the process; every significant sartorial...
Ever since Beau Brummell declared: "If people turn to look at you in the street, you are not well dressed, but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable,” coining the term "dandy" in the process; every significant sartorial revolution in menswear has been made in Britain. From exquisite rock stars like Bowie, Ferry and Jagger to the Punks and Mods of the late 70s and the defiantly androgynous New Romantics in the 80s, it’s always been British youth pushing menswear onwards and upwards. After years of steadily building buzz with the Menswear Day at London Fashion Week, London will finally be able to properly celebrate its rich heritage and exciting future with the launch of its own menswear schedule in June, entitled London Collections: Men. With showings by London’s best talent (JW Anderson, Sibling, the much anticipated return of Aitor Throup), rising stars like William Richard Green and Shaun Samson alongside powerhouses such as Pringle and Burberry; the three-day extravaganza will kick off with a reception by the Prince of Wales on June 14th. AnOther spoke with chair of the Fashion 2012 Menswear Committee, GQ’s editor Dylan Jones.
Did you have any style icons growing up who’ve had an influence on you to this day?
The person I was fascinated with from a very young age was Dean Martin because that was all my mother seemed to play. So Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jnr too but mainly with Dean Martin. Not only did I become obsessed with his music from a very young age but how he looked too. How men carried themselves in those days just seemed to be not only incredibly elegant but a great way to carry yourself.
When did you get your first bespoke suit and what did it mean to you?
I had my first tailor-made suit when I was 24. It was by a man called Jack Geech in Harrow – he made suits for Teddy Boys. I was still going to nightclubs so I was always having things made which were quite outlandish. Then it was a guy in Kentish Town who made suits for Spandau Ballet before I gradually moved to Savile Row where I’ve been ever since.
Editing GQ since 1999, what shifts have you seen in menswear and how would you describe its state today?
I think menswear has never been as powerful or important and diverse. In the 12 years I’ve been here, the market has grown. If you look at GQ now you’ll see everything from powerful high street items to the very best in British luxury and I think that’s great. In terms of the industry, menswear has never had so much momentum. Menswear as an industry has never been as big as it is now and the fact that we’re getting our first proper men’s fashion week is a big leap forward.
What separates how London men dress from men in New York or Milan? Are we more prepared to take risks?
I think men in Milan, Paris and New York are far more traditional and conservative. Although a lot of them are very elegant, it’s quite bourgeois and they’re restricted and a little scared in how they should dress. Although Paris, Milan and New York are great fashion machines, in terms of culture, London is so far ahead of those cities. In London in particular, men are more adventurous and carefree and not hidebound by tradition. This really started in the early 80s when men started seeing themselves reflected in popular culture with the rise of the style magazines. Three of the most important magazines of the last 50 years – i-D, The Face and Blitz were launched in the space of a few months. You had a generation of men who grew up through youth culture who were becoming the dominant generation.
"There’s absolutely no doubt in my mind that this initiative could be the most interesting fashion week in the men’s calendar."
Why has it taken so long for London to establish its own menswear week?
I think it’s been attempted before but not with very great vigor. 10 years ago, London Fashion Week was not punching as hard as it could do and now we’re punching above our weight – LFW is the coolest fashion week in the world and the aspirations are to make London Collections: Men exactly the same. It might not happen in the first season but it’s got to happen.
How did your position as chair of the committee come about and how has it evolved since you started?
I was simply asked by Caroline Rush, the chief executive of the British Fashion Council to chair the committee and steer the events. I’ve been very gratified by the enthusiasm of everyone involved – it’s been a lot easier than I expected. If you look at the diversity of magazines today, there are so many great magazines – there are more avenues for young designers to be championed. We’ve reached out to Esquire, AnOther Man to get involved and it’s important we all champion the event.
The London Collections: Men mixes established Savile Row talent with cutting edge talent like Aitor Throup and JW Anderson – does this mix reflect the state of menswear today where men can mix and match tailoring with avant garde design?
Yeah it does because you’re not going to find that anywhere else in the world. You’ve kind of got everything. If you take this current men’s schedule, I think you see more diversity than you ever have done before. The great thing about London as a sartorial centre is not only do we have this incredibly rich heritage of Savile Row but we also have the best street culture in the world. Every major youth movement has started in the UK from the Edwardians to the Teds, Mods, Punks, New Romantics and everything that’s come in its wake. But we have an incredibly vibrant high street and a designer culture with the likes of Paul Smith and Burberry. You have a rich seam of creativity in this country.
What does it mean to have the Prince of Wales host a reception to inaugurate the event?
It’s a fantastic endorsement. It means the world to me personally and it’s a great boost. We couldn’t wish for more.
Where would you like to see London Collections: Men go for the future?
There’s absolutely no doubt in my mind that this initiative could be the most interesting fashion week in the men’s calendar.
London Collections: Men will run from June 15-17 2012 at The Hospital Club, 24 Endell Street London.
