This image of model Benjamin Eidem @ Elite Model Management in Look 9, was taken backstage at James Long’s S/S13 catwalk show at The Sorting Office, as part of London collections: Men. Symbolic of the whole collection, it is what the designer
This image of model Benjamin Eidem @ Elite Model Management in Look 9, was taken backstage at James Long’s S/S13 catwalk show at The Sorting Office, as part of London collections: Men. Symbolic of the entire collection, the designer describes it as “a key James Long look”: featuring a hand knitted abacus jumper, with a fine silver thread running through the cream and black and grey lightweight cottons; “Kung Fu Cowboy” shorts in a double-faced waffle fabric inspired by Josef Albers; clean, crisp and white cotton shirt with a fine detailed collar; Riley frames with sunglass clips from Oliver Peoples; socks by John Smedley; and sandals by Kurt Geiger. “Worn together or as separates,” explains the designer, “sums up James Long.”
Here we gain a further insight into Long’s references and influences for the season based around Look 9, styled by Another Man senior fashion editor Bryan McMahon…
The aesthetic for S/S13 appears darker than previous seasons...
In terms of theme or inspiration there is always a dark thread, last season was David Lynch. My collections are always personal so if I'm feeling dark the collections are going to be dark. Also this season was so short I had to rely on instinct and make definite decisions.
Strong graphics and mathematical printing featured throughout your collection what inspired this?
The graphics were shattered and blown up, like a smashed up abacus, Josef Albers, Alan Vega, Kung Foo Cowboys, felt tip scribbles. It was really anti-maths, confused maths, with no real order.
Please describe your variations on the classic white shirt and the incorporation of embroidered motifs?
I have been doing my own kind of white shirt project for a few seasons now. I think its something every man needs and wears. I just decided to show it simply this time, just as it is!
Renowned for your strong knitwear – what did you try to achieve with it for S/S13 and would you say kept the British summertime in mind including chunky knits?
I hope that the clothes I make are for more than one season, more trans-seasonal so the whole year is in mind really. The British summer must be a influence in some way I think there is always a time for a summer sweater.
What kind of “man” did you have in mind for your S/S13 collection?
Gabriel Bruce.
With this in mind please describe the casting and the styling of the models?
As I have worked on every show I have ever done with Shelley Durkan for casting and Bryan McMahon for styling, we have built up a identity of who the James Long man is. We like to have a new face and a strong, sometimes bold, statuesque face, a toned but not built body with a strong shoulder.
What directions did you give your models?
I play the music, show the moodboard. It was a slower but still powerful walk – an inner calmness of strength.
Was eyewear a key feature in your collection?
Yes I worked with Oliver Peoples using the Riley shape with a clip-on sunglasses. I'm a big fan of the brand.
Text by Lucia Davies
