AnOther steps into the luxurious world of haute couture, where opulence and fantasy intertwine is a moment of magical decadence. A/W12 has been particularly memorable, with Raf Simons making his much-anticipated debut at Dior...
AnOther steps into the luxurious world of haute couture, where opulence and fantasy intertwine is a moment of magical decadence. A/W12 was particularly memorable, with Raf Simons making his much-anticipated debut at Dior with a floral spectacular and Karl Lagerfeld reopening the Salon d'Honneur which has been closed for 70 years. Elsewhere Jean Paul Gaultier oozed provocation in tailcoats and top hats, while Maison Martin Margiela sported diamond-encrusted masks. Here the AnOther team reveal their highlights from the season alongside exclusive imagery by photographer Kasia Bobula...
Susannah Frankel, fashion features director: "I loved the jewelled cut-off ballgowns worn over black cigarette pants at Dior and the fact that even the most elaborate pieces had pockets. I also would like to personally own a Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal reworked black lace Edwardian dress - in my dreams..."
Katie Shillingford, fashion director: "Of course Dior was a high point for me – it was an incredibly exciting morning – everyone was waiting in anticipation like Christmas day or even your wedding day! Walking into the venue with those incredible rooms of floor to ceiling flowers- it was breathtaking. I was in the yellow room. I loved Raf's modern vision of the classic Dior New Look silhouette, especially worn over a classic pair of black trousers...or a gigantic skirt with tons of under layers and intricate embroidery on the outer layer, worn with a soft jersey T-shirt. Everything was elegant and effortless and very cool. Another great moment during the week was Iris Van Herpen's show. I always like what Iris does but this felt like yet another progression of her futuristic vision. My favourite piece was the 3D print dress which looks almost like coral – I was lucky enough to shoot it and I thought I was going to have a heart attack I was so nervous when dressing the model – it's really an incredible sculpture...quite tricky to piece together."
"I loved the jewelled cut-off ballgowns worn over black cigarette pants at Dior" – Susannah Frankel
Agata Belcen, fashion editor: "I like how Karl Lagerfeld can make couture look so casual and comfortable – it's not just about fancy dresses, it's about a whole lifestyle where everything you inhabit is sumptuous. Margiela was brilliant to use the hours of craftsmanship set aside for couture to make something completely original."
Laura Bradley, commissioning editor: "I really enjoyed the face-covering trend and how it was approached by different brands. The transparent veils with delicate floral embroidery at Armani Privé were stunning, as were the mirrored masks at Margiela. The stretched face nets at Dior courtesy of Stephen Jones were very clever – a development of the brilliant net beanies he did for Jil Sander S/S12."
Zoe Maughan, photography editor: "The Margiela face masks – I loved the jewelling and how surreal they are. I would love to wear one, but don't think I could find the right occasion!"
"Everything at Iris Van Herpen was elegant and effortless and very cool" – Katie Shillngford
Nell Kellonj, deputy fashion editor: "I was lucky enough to see the Dior couture collection up close and was absolutely fascinated by the detailing and the beautiful embroidery. One of my favourite dresses is look 45 – it seems quite simple but is actually made out of two coloured duck feathers to create a striped effect and a cloud like texture. Beautiful!"
Fashion Coordinator Mhairi Graham: "I loved the Margiela masks, they were both haunting and beautiful. The hair for Alexis Mabille reminded me of Little My from the Moomins, who was my favourite character when I was little. Perhaps she still is."
