Resort is a relaxed mid-season that abandons the regimental schedule of fashion week, running from May until early June. The clothing tends to be more wearable, although the most successful never lose their sense of fantasy...
Resort is a relaxed mid-season that abandons the regimental schedule of fashion week, running from May until early June. The clothing tends to be more wearable, although the most successful never lose their sense of fantasy. Resort 2013 paid homage to the Olympic season, with recurring themes of sportswear, stripes and heritage. Lanvin placed comfort over contort in tropical printed playsuits, where stretch trousers were juxtaposed beside cropped tuxedo jackets and tailored shorts with lashings of heavy jewellery.
Continuing this theme, Diane Von Furstenberg’s collection read like a series of postcards from a road trip across America. Starting off in New York on a cobble-street jacket, moving to the Californian sunset on a pair of pink surf shorts or the panel of a palm tree-printed trouser leg in Everglades. The bright lights of Las Vegas were present in metallic heels or the oversized ‘Graceland’ lapel of a tailored jacket. Pieces were crafted in signature stretch silk Georgette, ensuring a delicacy amongst the popping colours on the tour de Furstenberg.
Muiccia Prada also tipped her hat to sportswear, presenting her team of fur trimmed tennis stars. Inspired by 1970s sportswear, paneled trousers, shirts and tank tops walked amidst a retro palette of muted greens and navy blue.
Céline was a seductive blend of signature styles - wide legged trousers, bold stripes and leathers, such as the burgundy leather coat zipped and seamed thrice across the bodice or the patch-panel t-shirts and skirts. Printed silk scarves were wrapped tightly round the neck alongside oversized polka dots and signature folded clutch bags.
"Nicolas Ghesquière was inspired by the ballet performance of Ravel’s Boléro for Balenciaga"
Nicolas Ghesquière was inspired by the ballet performance of Ravel’s Boléro for Balenciaga, adapting its fluidity and pastel colour palette to flowing gowns, ruffled collars and tailored trousers. These were juxtaposed beside hard leathers and harnesses and to give the Balenciaga damsel a tough edge.
Marc Jacobs was a delightfully bright mix of clashing prints, polka dots, size and length. Originally inspired by Cindy Sherman’s clown series, the collection of safari jackets, floral coats and metallic maxi’s featured loose linear shapes and bold print reminiscent of a 1970s Curly Casey doll.
Read Booker Prize nominated author Ned Beaumann's review of the New York Resort 2013 shows here.
Text by Mhairi Graham
