Whenever Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld creates a Cruise show, count on a travel theme in the most imaginative and luxurious conditions possible. Former destinations have included Los Angeles, Miami, Venice Antibes and last year’s Versailles...
Whenever Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld creates a Cruise show, count on a travel theme within the most imaginative and luxurious conditions possible. Former destinations have included Los Angeles, Miami, Venice Antibes and last year’s Versailles. However, this time Singapore – Southeast Asia’s boom city that boasts six Chanel stores – was the chosen location.
Describing the collection as “a mix of Coco Chanel at Deauville in 1913 and colonial style,” Lagerfeld furthered the impact with the projection of his short film a day before the collection. Called ‘Once Upon a Time…’, the black and white movie concerned the opening of Chanel’s legendary hat shop in the French seaside town. Keira Knightley played the role of the young Chanel, Clotilde Hesme, the César award-winning French actress, was her Aunt Adrienne while there were apt cameos from models like Jamie Bochert, Saskia de Brauw and Stella Tennant.
Once Upon a Time… was screened outside in Palm Court, the courtyard of the Raffles Hotel, the nineteenth century establishment named after Singapore’s national hero Sir Stamford Raffles and associated with Charlie Chaplin, Somerset Maugham and Noel Coward. Afterwards, the crème de la crème of the audience including actresses Anna Mouglalis, Zhou Xun and Astrid Bergès-Frisby and models Ashleigh Good, Lindsey and Cara Delevingne descended on Lagerfeld’s table and offered their heart-felt congratulations. “Karl, all the girls looked gorgeous, gorgeous,” Delivingne exclaimed. Bochert won major votes for her dramatic portrayal of the Marchesa di Casati whereas Tennant who referred to her appearance as her “film debut” then admitted, “since I turned up on the last afternoon, I didn’t really get a sense of the shoot.” Meanwhile, Katie Nescher bid an early exit from the celebratory ‘cocktail dinatoire.’ “I need to be pretty for tomorrow’s show,” the Russian cover girl said.
"Keira Knightley played the role of the young Chanel, Clotilde Hesme, the César award-winning French actress, was her Aunt Adrienne while there were apt cameos from models like Jamie Bochert, Saskia de Brauw and Stella Tennant."
Nescher’s sage behavior was quite different to certain fellow models that were clearly in a mischievous St Trinian’s mood, carrying on in the wee hours in their hotel bedrooms then posting their fun and games on Facebook. The question remains whether it was fuelled by the high consumption of Singapore Slings – the Raffles’s signature gin-based cocktail whizzed around on trays by immaculately attired waiters - or the influence of the appealingly adventurous Delevingne who also happens to be a huge star in Southeast Asia.
Nevertheless, the next day, Delevingne et al defined fresh-faced and steady on parade. A feat considering it was 100 degrees in the shade and hideously humid. While fashion journalists and stylists either relaxed by the Mandarin Oriental’s swimming pool or checked out Little India and the Arab Quarter or took in the orchids at Singapore’s Botanic Gardens, the models presented the Cruise collection twice. The first time being for a select Singapore clientele at 3pm then, a few hours later, for the world’s media.
Held on Dempsey Hill at the Loewen Cluster, a former nutmeg plantation turned deserted British Army barracks, the show’s unusual location demonstrated Lagerfeld’s genius. “I like the idea that it’s not impeccable,” he had previously disclosed. “There’s a romantic charm that new things cannot always have. It’s not (just) about the historical details but also the mood.” Naturally, the surrounding vegetation consisted of swaying coconut trees and durian trees – known for their thorny fruit – while the lawn was covered in cow grass, “specific to Southeast Asia,” pointed out Subhas Kandasamy, the Singapore-born gallery owner. Still, Lagerfeld’s decision to unveil his show in the place’s dilapidated wing was beyond brilliant because the contrast of the venue’s conditions set up the superb quality of his resort clothes.
After being greeted with Lemon Grass tea and exotic fruit juices, actress guests such as Dakota Fanning, Rinko Kikuchi and Fann Wong were led into a large barn-like building whose disrepair was illustrated by the peeling paint on the walls and concrete slab floors. The show – watched from plain wooden benches, another inspired idea – proved that Lagerfeld holds the house of Chanel in his hands and seamlessly pulls enough double-C rabbits out of his hat to satisfy every Asian customer who, it should be added, seriously suit his designs.
"I like the idea that it’s not impeccable,” Lagerfeld had previously disclosed. “There’s a romantic charm that new things cannot always have. It’s not (just) about the historical details but also the mood."
Fitting in with Chanel’s signature hues, the colours were off-white, beige, pale pink, navy and black while the 81 looks were diverse, vibrant and effortlessly wearable. The styles varied from long tunics worn over wide pants; short boxy or Spencer jackets paired with flared leather pants or the new skirt length that exposes the knee and falls long in the back; exotic print fitted tops teamed with long matching skirts; slouchy cricket sweaters notable for starting low on the shoulder and exquisitely embellished eveningwear that often boasts the new skirt length and is either slinky or protrudes with voluminous bodices and hems. Three key messages came with the appearance of the new Chanel tweed jacket, cross-buttoned at the collar and flaring out, allowing a V-shaped opening in the front, the return of Chanel’s pearl necklaces – one of the house’s iconic codes, casually wrapped around necks and waists; and the reappearance of the two-tone Chanel shoe – another signature classic.
The after-party hit the same high note. Both sensual and colonial in ambience due to the discreetly achieved lighting and music organized by Michel Gaubert – “think heat, think sweat, think tropical,” was how he described his selection - invitees either relaxed and chatted outside on armchairs or took full advantage of the culinary feast awaiting them in the main building. Exquisitely prepared sushi, a mouth-watering arrangement of mini desserts like green tea and chocolate mousse and a glass case of shipped-in French cheeses were just a few of the delicacies that were displayed like precious jewels.
As is his way, Lagerfeld made his entrance mid-way through the festivities. After chatting with pals, he then sat down for a goblet of his diet coke. He may create unexpected magic but certain habits never change. It is no secret that he remains one of La Mode’s King of the Hill, however, after his Singapore show, Lagerfeld became the newly appointed King of Dempsey Hill.
Text by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni
