We take a look at the new Paris Haute Couture exhibition at the Hotel de Ville
Paris Haute Couture is a must see exhibition. However, since entry is free – yes, that rare but very welcome 4-letter word! – go early or expect to wait in line. Financed by Swarovski, the show was curated by Olivier Saillard, the director of Musée Galliera, noted for its extensive fashion collections; usually donated by the good, the great and the exceedingly wealthy. Of course, Saillard was the magician who put together the highly original Madame Grès retrospective at the Musée Bourdelle in 2011. Now, it has to be quickly added that Paris Haute Couture is fairly tame in comparison. Nevertheless, it’s impressive for being well edited and, in an intelligent, comprehensive way, it illustrates the history of the craft and how it has evolved from the days of Charles Frederick Worth, the 19th century great couturier who forged his reputation in Paris but actually hailed from Old Blighty!
"Certain friends were thrilled to see Worth’s ball gown...while others were more taken by Elsa Schiaparelli’s embroidered cape."
Everyone has their favourite moment in the exhibition. Certain friends were thrilled to see Worth’s ball gown, Paul Poiret’s Sésostris evening coat and Jeanne Lanvin’s Bel Oiseau evening dress while others were more taken by Elsa Schiaparelli’s embroidered cape, Pierre Cardin’s target dress and Jean Paul Gaultier’s ornate herringbone tweed suit and naturally there were those who only focused on the pieces by Cristobal Balenciaga. True, the display of choice is sensational. Still, I got more excited at the photographs of the designer’s hands, taken by François Kolbar. The framed paws of Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel, Jacques Fath and Lucien Lelong seriously intrigued. I also enjoyed the short films exposing reluctant stars Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. Finally, I found my dream dress. Navy blue wool crêpe, it was created by Jean Dessès in 1937 but could be worn now. It is that simple and timeless.
Paris Haute Couture is at the Hotel de Ville until 6 July. Read our interview with Olivier Saillard here.
Text by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni
Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni is a Paris-based British writer who covers fashion and lifestyle as well as being the author of Sam Spiegel – The Biography of A Hollywood Legend, Understanding Chic, an essay from the Paris Was Ours anthology, the soon-to-be released Tino Zervudachi – A Portfolio – as well as the Chanel book, for Assouline's fashion series.
Robert Beck is former New Yorker currently based in Paris. A former classical dancer, his book for children titled "A Bunny in the Ballet" will be available early in 2014 from Scholastic, Inc.
