We take a look at Monsieur Bleu, a trendy new brasserie in Paris
Monsieur Bleu opened last April and, ever since, friends and acquaintances have been recommending it. Usually, I avoid trendy brasseries, comme la peste (like the plague) but I have to say that Monsieur Bleu deserves major enthusiasm. The grub is good, the service is excellent and, sorry to sound starry eyed, but walking into a joint where Leonardo DiCaprio, Tobey Maguire and cronies are breaking bread at the next door table defines unusual for Sunday night in Paris. The only downside is finding Monsieur Bleu. True, it’s located in the Palais de Tokyo but expect a song and dance of staircases and corridors before reaching its entrance.
Designed by the French architect Joseph Dirand, Monsieur Bleu is Art Deco and 1930s in feel but has contemporary flourish via the choice of colours and furniture. Outside on the wrap-around terrace, there’s a terrific view of the Eiffel Tower. Still, what gives international edge to Monsieur Bleu is the restaurant’s soaring ceiling, large lanterns and main wall, gilded with gold. On arrival, I had a flashback of Odeon in the early 1980s, the Tribeca restaurant that Keith McNally initially owned. God, that place was a riot. I suppose it was the mixture of soft lighting, amicable and attractive looking staff – the impish Keith was such a looks snob! – and the amazing casting of people.
"Designed by the French architect Joseph Dirand, Monsieur Bleu is Art Deco and 1930s in feel but has contemporary flourish"
Monsieur Bleu has much of the same elements. Meanwhile, the superb setting makes eating there an event. Indeed, there is nothing bland about Monsieur Bleu. Hopefully, it will become a classic like Brasseries Lipp, Balzar and Stella. Or so the co-owners, Gilles Malafosse, Laurent de Gourcuff and Benjamin Cassan intend. And they are right to nurse such ambitions. Finally, Alexis Mabille’s uniform – imagine navy or white 1930s-style dresses on all the waitresses – adds a lovely touch.
Monsieur Bleu is at 20 avenue de New York, Paris.
Text by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni
Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni is a Paris-based British writer who covers fashion and lifestyle as well as being the author of Sam Spiegel – The Biography of A Hollywood Legend, Understanding Chic, an essay from the Paris Was Ours anthology, the soon-to-be released Tino Zervudachi – A Portfolio – as well as the Chanel book, for Assouline's fashion series.
Robert Beck is former New Yorker currently based in Paris. A former classical dancer, his book for children titled "A Bunny in the Ballet" will be available early in 2014 from Scholastic, Inc.
