Natsumi Zama

Natsumi Zama, from the London College of Fashion, showed a striking graduate BA collection this summer. Her clothes balanced rigidity and lightness in a way that recalled the Japanese Kimono. Zama herself is Japanese and I was interested in her desire to respond to a cultural tradition that is personally relevant to her. Her modest and honest approach to fashion is intriguing, and it made me reconsider what I can contribute to fashion as a Japanese stylist.

What were you thinking about when you were designing this collection?
When I was pattern cutting and inventing the silhouettes, I thought a lot about the straight lines of a kimono. It’s a shame I didn’t anticipate a good way to fold the clothes and carry them around easily, as it’s proving difficult. It would have made sense because beauty and function are closely linked in the symbolism of kimonos.

Why did you choose to focus on tying large ribbons?
I learned a lot about the obi kimono belt while I was designing. I found that there are many different ways to tie a knot and I wanted to celebrate the fact that one simple piece of clothing can be enjoyed in so many variations.

Why did you make the whole collection in beige?
If I used one colour, it wouldn’t distract from the silhouettes and detailing. I chose beige because it’s the colour I associate with a classic and modest Japanese beauty.

What are you thinking about for your next collection?
At the moment I am interested in The Brothers Grimm Fairy Tales, braids and European folk costumes.

Do you have any plans for the future?
I would love to own a small studio, work hard every day and produce garments for customers who love what I make.

 

Credits:

Photography: Billy Ballard
Text and Styling: Nobuko Tannawa
All Clothes by Natsumi Zama
Hair: Mari Ohashi using Kiehl’s
Make-up and manicure: Zoe Taylor using MAC
Re-touching: Regina Limon Vega
Model: Alice Gibb @ Premier
Photographic assistant: Rob Low
Make-up assistant Lauren Wall
Special Thanks to: Mark Loy Director of Spring Studios, Spring Lighting and Spring Digital

 

After assisting stylist Joanna Schlenzka for three years, Nobuko Tannawa is now a freelance fashion stylist. She grew up in Tokyo and New York

Billy Ballard grew up in the Midlands thinking he was going to be a scientist. He is currently living in East London, working as a freelance photographic assistant