During his ten years at German sportswear label Y-3, Yohji Yamamoto has proved that tailoring and conceptual skills can be applied to the world of sportswear with finesse, rigour and dynamism. "With adidas we created something that did not exist before and completely projected the future," the designer says. "My desire was, and is, to make sportswear elegant and chic." And he's done it, as demonstrated in a graphic book celebrating a decade of the brand, combining highlights from each collection and quotes from Yamamoto's key collaborators. Here, we look back over Yamamoto's decade at Y-3, and pick our five favourite innovations created through this effortless confluence of catwalk sportswear.
Autumn/Winter 2001-2001, Adidas for Yohji Yamamoto Footwear
Inception There are many interesting stories to be found within the rich Y-3 archive. The collaboration first came about when Yamamoto created a collection of limited-edition adidas trainers for his A/W01 Yohji Yamamoto womenswear collection. Maria Carla and Alek Wek appeared, clothed in trademark black Yohji looks that haven't dated to this day. A classic examples of Y-3's easy modernity – the unexpected pairing made natural.
S/S04 Paris; S/S07, New York; S/S04 Paris
Youth Youth culture is an interesting reference point throughout the archive, with platform flip-flops, long sleeves and braces all featuring the iconic adidas three-stripe. Youth is also an overriding theme in Yohji Yamamoto's recent S/S14 collection, which incorporated flouro palettes and rebellious moods.
Spring/Summer 2007, Pier 40 New York, September 13, 2006Photography by Donata Wenders
Movement Another highlight is Yamamoto's handling of the sporting world, in particular his acknowledgment of movement. "When I was 18 and the art world was clothed in Japanese fashion, I thought that the uniform was about cloaking the body," explains photographer Collier Schorr. "Working with Y-3 for a few seasons, I realised in fact that those lengths of material, pleats and folds were really about allowing the body to move and dance in the clothes, all the while memorising the body's form."
Autumn/Winter 2007-2008, Y-3FAC51, The Hacienda
Collaboration In 2007, the limited edition Y-3FAC51 trainer was launched to celebrate twenty-five years of legendary Manchester nightclub, The Haçienda. The shoe, a collaboration between Factory Records graphic designer Peter Saville, Haçienda nightclub designer Ben Kelly, and Joy Division/New Order bass player, Peter Hook, was limited to 250 pairs and sold out immediately, becoming one of Y-3’s most successful and iconic products.
Spring/Summer 2004, L’Institut du Judo Paris, October 9, 200Photography by Villa Eugénie
Yohji Himself An image of Yohji Yamamoto is emblazoned on the back of a spring/summer 2004 white tunic worn by Alek Wek. The designer confidently sports three medals around his neck, sleeves embellished with the adidas three-stripe, whilst the wire of dangling laurel leaves circling the model’s head chimes with the overall attitude of athleticism and success.
