In this month’s exclusive fashion story, we showcase the work of six promising young designers. In the second of our series of interviews with those featured, we talk to Lilly Heine, a Central Saint Martins graduate who produced an entirely beige
In this month’s exclusive fashion story, we showcase the work of six promising young designers. In the second of our series of interviews with those featured, we talk to Lilly Heine, a Central Saint Martins graduate who produced an entirely beige collection. Emphasising shape and form, Heine created depth in her pieces with an unusual front door-effect panel on dresses, skirts and jackets. Keen to bring couture elements to the mainstream, Heine is currently designing a collection for Topshop.
What were the ideas behind your MA collection?
Picasso’s sketches of women and his exploration of body shape, drawing curvaceous women with simple shapes like squares, rectangles and circles. At the same time I started using fabric to create volume. Once I put these shapes onto the body, it was like sculpting on a person. When the models walked around in the garments, the different layers started to move and the models looked like sculptures in motion.
How would you describe your style to someone who doesn't know your work?
Minimalist, yet crafted to detail.
What made you decide to get into fashion? Have you always been interested in it?
I have always been interested in it, but always thought I would study psychology or literature. It just naturally progressed this way.
Can you take us through your design and construction process?
Every shape is laser cut and then every layer is pieced together by hand-stitching. The garment shapes are quite simple and the layers of fabric are stitched onto them. It’s a very labour-intensive collection. Essentially, it is in part a couture collection, disguised by the fact that it looks modern.
Do you have anyone in mind when you are designing?
I don't really have a certain woman in mind; I see garments more like pieces of art.
Do you have a favourite design of yours?
A few years ago I designed a dress made of paper. It's weird when you look back to times when you knew much less about design, and to see what came purely from instinct.
What is your proudest achievement in your career so far?
Collaborating with Topshop. As my A/W10 collection is so labour-intensive and expensive to produce, it’s especially good to see the garments reach the mainstream. I am interested in the relationship between couture, art and commerciality. It was also great to meet Hannah MacGibbon and win the Chloe Award last year.
Who in the industry would you most like to collaborate with?
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada.
Who are your favourite designers?
Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons for Jil Sander, and Alexander McQueen.
Where do you see yourself in five years’ time?
Working as an in-house textile designer and designing freelance on the side.
On the website we do a segment called AnOther Loves –what's one thing you're loving right now?
My favourite book, Dancer, by Colum McCann, about the Russian ballet dancer Rudolph Nureyev.
Interview by Hollie Lacayo
See our animated fashion story featuring pieces from Lilly Heine’s collection in Exclusives.
