When Kirsty Emery finished her master’s degree at the Royal College of Art, it was no surprise to anyone except herself. Despite having no prior fashion design training, her talent was immediately obvious to her teachers and peers. Her style is
When Kirsty Emery finished her master’s degree at the Royal College of Art, it was no surprise to anyone except herself. Despite having no prior fashion design training, her talent was immediately obvious to her teachers and peers. Her style is whimsical, fluid and playful yet elegant. And her MA collection, a delightful mix of sheer fabrics with chunky knits in sorbet tones, is the perfect addition to any winter wardrobe. We just hope her uncharted course continues to yield such aesthetically pleasing creations.
What were the ideas behind your MA collection?
I took my inspiration from a variety of different places: 1970s Halston; Rothko's No 21 (Untitled), 1947; Erwin Blumenfeld's 1950's fashion photography. I was also heavily influenced by previous collections I’d designed and techniques developed while at the Royal College of Art. In particular the combining of knit with woven fabrics using purely knit techniques.
How would you describe your style to someone who doesn't know your work?
Minimal, relaxed, light-hearted and colourful.
What made you decide to get into fashion? Have you always been interested in it?
I have always been interested in fashion, much to the amusement of my friends, but it wasn't what I thought I’d do. My BA was in textiles, so I planned to be a textiles designer, but as my degree came to an end I realised that all my work was fashion-based, and so I decided to go into fashion.
Can you take us through your design and construction process?
I like to start off with just gathering images and scraps of fabrics or colour which interest me, then refine these ideas by sketching, knitting swatches and experimenting with shape and silhouette on a half-scale mannequin. I also experiment a lot with different ways of joining fabrics, particularly finding a variety of alternative ways of linking knit to woven.
Do you have anyone in mind when you are designing?
No, not anyone in particular, but rather an attitude. I want my woman to be casual but smart, comfortable, confident, tenacious, upbeat and fresh. I want her to be able to just throw on her clothes and go.
Do you have a favourite design of yours?
It’s tough. I'm not sure if I can pick any one outfit or garment, but I did really enjoy making the oversized hand-knits. The knitting needles were so big I had to prop myself up in a mountain of pillows and cushions!
What is your proudest achievement in your career so far?
Completing my MA, despite my absolute lack of formal fashion training before it. I couldn't even sew in a straight line!
Who in the industry would you most like to collaborate with?
I would love to collaborate with Luella Bartley if she was able to restart Luella, as I liked her design philosophy but feel that the knitwear in her collections could have been developed further into statement pieces.
Who are your favourite designers?
Marc Jacobs, Sonia Rykiel, Richard Nicoll, Paul Smith and Dries Van Noten.
What are you referencing for your next collection?
J Bennett Fitts’s series of photographs called No Lifeguard On Duty.
Where do you see yourself in five years’ time?
I'm not sure, I always seem to fall into things. Hopefully I’ll be happy and working in the knit department of one of my favourite fashion houses.
On the website we do a segment called AnOther Loves. What's one thing you're loving right now?
Rob Ryan's beautiful paper cuts.
Interview by Hollie Lacayo
See our animated fashion story featuring pieces from Nathalie Froyden’s collection in Exclusives. And read interviews with the five other designers here.
