We consider Marques'Almedia's most personal and introspective collection so far
Although their show took place only yesterday, Marques'Almeida felt omnipresent throughout London Fashion Week. Their signature frayed denims, flap pockets and one-shouldered cuts were worn by editors and guests at nearly every show, along with a succession of inspired unruly Kurt-esqe hair. Only in its third catwalk season, the Almeida cult is quietly growing, as they carve a contemporary grunge aesthetic that echoes nineties nostalgia and the subcultures of their youth.
"We intrinsically felt the need to look within" — Marques'Almeida
However S/S15 marks a change in direction for the fashion house. While still very signature Almeida — frayed edges, jagged hemlines, collar jackets and hanging ties — there was a little less denim and much more colour, culminating in a bright finale of psychedelic patchwork swirls and large Swarovski crystals, mixing sheer fabric with linen and leather. Models carried python bags, hair was backcombed and eyes were neon-striped. “It happened naturally, to take it in a different direction,” they explained post-show. “It was a necessary thing, we intrinsically felt the need to look within. We looked at agony — the good agony.”
Models walked to PJ Harvey, another artist noted for playing on the woe of teenage angst. The Almeida girl has definitely grown up a little for S/S15. “She’s moody, she’s introspective, but euphoric at the same time,” they explained. “We never know what she is going to do next.” Happily, neither do we.
Text by Mhairi Graham
