Chary Westberg

Chary Westberg, one of this year’s Central St Martins Fashion MA graduates, approached his collection with an intelligent respect for the fundamental aspects of design, colour and proportion. Taking inspiration from the Abstract Impressionists, his sensitive and imaginative process heralds a designer capable of creating pieces that are driven by careful consideration.

Could you talk us through your design process?
It was quite clear that my collection was going to be about colour from day one. I looked at the stark, minimal work of Mark Rothko and Barnett Newman, and I wanted my collection to inhabit that feeling of looking at their works. The first thing I designed was the shoe boot. I wanted it to set the look of the collection and not just be an accessory – the clothes had to have the same clarity and oddness as the shoe. So when the first prototype of the show arrived it set the standard.

Have you always been interested in colour and proportion?
I never set out to work on anything specific. The great thing about St Martins is that you can experiment with your creativity, there are no set rules. My tutors brought it to my attention and then I won the Chloe Award. At that point, it became evident that it was something I should focus on in the future.

Are you working on any designs or projects at the moment?
I’m one of the new in-house designers at Marimekko and I’m currently working on their A/W10 collection. There’ll be a lot of emphasis on colour and they’ve put great faith in me to bring a fresh approach to the design house.

What are your plans for the future?
Retirement.

 

Credits:

Photography: Billy Ballard
Styling: Nobuko Tannawa
All Clothes by Chary Westberg; Fez hats by James Lock & Co; gloves by Sermoneta
Hair: Mari Ohashi using Kiehl’s
Make-up and manicure: Zoe Taylor using MAC
Re-touching: Regina Limon Vega
Model: Rachel Rutt at Next
Photographic assistant: Rob Low Special
Thanks to: Mark Loy Director of Spring Studios, Spring Lighting and Spring Digita

 

After assisting stylist Joanna Schlenzka for three years, Nobuko Tannawa is now a freelance fashion stylist. She grew up in Tokyo and New York

Billy Ballard grew up in the Midlands thinking he was going to be a scientist. He is currently living in East London, working as a freelance photographic assistant