AnOther explore the collaborative relationship between fashion house Peter Pilotto and artist Francis Upritchard
Who? On the surface, Peter Pilotto and Francis Upritchard are quite different: Pilotto, with his design partner Christopher de Vos, is behind a label recognised for its sculptural cuts and otherworldly, vibrant prints. Upritchard, a sculptor, creates enchanting, slightly twisted pieces through the recycling of everyday motifs. The pair united over the weekend to showcase a selection of their work as special guests for HOUSE PARTY with Dzek – a presentation of furniture, ceramics, painting and jewellery selected by Kate MacGarry and Brent Dzekciorius. New ceramics by Upritchard were curated alongside archival Pilotto pieces. "The event occurred because all parties greatly respect and enjoy the work of the others and it seemed a fun and natural fit," explains Pilotto. "It looked very beautiful and coherent, displayed in the gallery together. We enjoy the fusion of art and fashion and the creative genius that resides behind both at this level."
What? Upritchard and Pilotto have collaborated for several years. In 2012 they presented Arch – a bent-over, bowed figure that debuted at the V&A as part of an Olympic-themed exhibition that aimed to demonstrate the dialogue between fashion and art. Sculpted by Upritchard, it was inspired an old Yoga handbook, dressed in signature Pilotto print and hand-cut vinyl fishscale shapes. The duo also collaborated on a series of kaleidoscopic surrealist scarves for Studio Voltaire.
Why? Pilotto has long been inspired by sculpture. S/S14 was influenced by Ken Price's graphic ceramics, translated in engineered print and embroidery, while the fashion house consistently pulls on sculptural techniques to achieve its intricate embellishments, where resin embroidery and 3D print sit alongside heavy beadwork, tiled across mini-dresses and tunic tops. Pilotto and his design partner Vos met at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2000, drawn together by an interest in science and nature. Pilotto is half Austrian-half-Italian, while De Vos is half-Belgian-half-Peruvian. They have also defied tradition by becoming a staple brand at London fashion week, breaking the unwritten rule that all Belgian designers show in Paris. "We're not typically Antwep," they told AnOther back in 2009. "There's a German word wunderkammer, which translates into English as 'cabinets of wonder'. We've always been interested in objects from unknown cultures gathered in one room. 'Curiosity cabinet' explains a lot for us."
Words by Mhairi Graham
