Fashion's focus is currently on Milan, and while the city may have changed, there are some familiar elements. Polonecks are abounding, alongside gleaming jacquard and shearling. So what's new? Equestrian met preppy at Andrea Pompilio in faded condiment colours of cranberry and mustard, Jil Sander referenced the 70s with a hint of Cold-War-spy, Neil Barrett eschewed drama, preferring the cosy, while Philipp Plein bid a frenzied farewell to subtlety, instead painting his models in Mardis Gras monochrome stripes.